Galvanized Pressure Tank Question

Hi guys,I will post pics tonight,i have a job to go to right now(Saturday morning).

Having problems trying to post pics to this forum,i think i have it figured out in the reply below.

I had to sign in to Live and then I still couldn't see the pics.

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http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo202/muddyriverdogz/watertank203.jpg

Ok, I can see it now. I was hoping to get a view of the checkvalve to see if it has a snifter or not.

Is this the pic you whant?

And it gets weirder and weirder...

muddyriver said:

Is this the pic you whant?

Click to expand...

Ja, that'll do. Weird is right. They used a footvalve for a snifter. At this point, I'm no longer confident that they used a bleeder inline or if they pulled the checkvalve from the pump. If the line drains all the way down to the water table, that would be a lot of air sent to the tank on every pump cycle. Had they run the inlet to the tank on the side, it would have made one hell of a gurgling noise so running it into the top makes sense. It might also be deliberately aerating the water. Is there a birm type iron filter?

The plumber from hell! Or a genius. Wonder how many flies and spiders flavor the water daily? A fine mesh over that would be needed, and more reliable than a snifter, however.

Got a air release valve, so it probably all works fine. But put a sock or nylons over the footvalve.

BUT: as to your first question, fixing a plain tank. I have three full of epoxyed in lag bolts. grind the area and use a washer and a ton of good epoxy. Some guys have success with a good whittled dry hardwood plug. If a welded flange is leaking, careful gringing, filing and sanding, with a clay "dam" to hold the epoxy can buy you a few years. Some I have brazed and soldered. JB is heavy bodied.

If the tank guys used a 10$ anode rod, they would last forever.