1/4 Line - Soldered fitting.....

On the supply side, I plan top run a T off 1/2 Copper to run a line to a icemaker outlet location.
However, the icemaker location is on the opposite side of the wall and the wall adjacent to it us just *furred out*.
I cannot fit a 1/2 pipe in that wall nor notch it. However, I can fit the 1/4 copper in this wall.

I'd prefer a soldered connection from the T *outlet side* all the the back back to the Icemaker Outlet (icemaker outlet generally has 1/2" solder F).


Otherwise, I may just solder a stub off the T, put a icemaker valve angle stop, then run the copper off that - behind the walls and just figure it out from there (strap copper to stud and then couple it) with a long SS icemaker line.


Any ideas or suggestions..

My ice maker is connected much the same as your will be. I sweat a 1/2" ball valve into a tee on the supply line then use compression adapters to go to 1/4" copper. Recently there was a post where instead of the ball valve, they used an angle stop with a compression fitting for the 1/4" copper. This may be a simpler way that what I did, but either way will work. Do not use the saddle valve sold with the copper tubing.

If you can't put an icemaker box there, then using a compression stop off the 1/2" copper is a good way to go.
They make stops that are 1/2" (5/8" od) copper comp x 1/4" OD comp

The braided supply line at the end, connected with a 1/4 OD comp union is good too.

If you can access a valve at the "T", then put the control valve there, then remove the IM box valve and run the 1/4" IM line thru that opening with sufficient "extra" to connect the flexible line with a compression union/coupling.

In my case, 1/4" tubing "fished" thru to drywall opening for icemaker box.
Icemake box has shut off valve.
Once I connnect 1/4" tube to IM shutoff, IM box inserted into drywall opening.
I assume that makes the connection between IM shutoff and 1/4" tubing "concealed" (i.e. not visible)
I am told that compression fitting are to remain visible... Don't want anything like SharkBite.
How does one go about soldering 1/4" to IM shutoff valve??
Are there copper transitions between shutoff valve and tubing??
I assume soldering tubing is OK??

I ended up doing it as planned. Ran the T right behind a access panel , and put a stub + icemaker ball valve on it. Picked up some 1/4 copper, rough it behind the furred out wall I had and just secured it back out to a small hole I made in the sheetrock. I plan to just couple it with a flex line and call it a day.

Pics for review.
Nail Plates + some insulation by the area where metal might touch it.
It's tight......where the furring studs are. Barely a hair between the cooper + concrete wall

Okay to have it run this way. I just plan to stub out the copper and the couple it to a SS flex hose.