Best tool to drill 3-5/8 hole in wood

Takelargebites

Takelargebites

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What is the best type of drill bit for drilling holes in wood framing for 3" PVC ? Are the self feed bits best? I see a 3-5/8 by Milwaukee for about $100.
 
Is 3-5/8 the best size to drill for 3" PVC? It sure seems like it will be a tight fit since the pipe is 3-1/2 OD.

I was planning on boring the following hole sizes:

1-1/2" PVC - 2-1/8" hole
2" PVC - 2-9/16" hole
3" PVC - 3-5/8 hole (since I haven't found a 3-3/4" bit)
 
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The close tolerance should not be a problem if you stay perpendicular to the wood. A good right-angle drill, while expensive is the way to go.
wpid-dcc36ab6ec400fcefbd1afb105bca9df.gif
 
If its your first big hole with a self feed, better be ready for an injury. Butt the drill to a board in the pull direction or have deep regrets later.

The Weenies use holes saws, but they cant get hurt.
 
I use a Timberwolf, it's has a clutch for the low speed. It also has a nice long handle that I can brace with. But Ballvalve is right, for someone that hasn't been taught, it's asking for trouble. And when hj says he uses planetor bits that size, that's really asking for it. hj can do it, but I would never recommend it to anyone that hasn't been plumbing for a while. It takes strength, which is something you can't teach, and it's takes knowledge, which is gained by experience.
 
Unless you plan to do house after house w/ these bits, why not just use normal hole saws? The self-feed bits are very expensive.

It takes longer, but is less dangerous, and will do the job.
 
dlarrivee said:
It takes longer, but is less dangerous, and will do the job.
Click to expand...
I could say the same for the old brace and adjustable bit that I grew up with. Come to think of it, I'm sure the brace and bit was faster, except in tight spaces where you had to ratchet it.
 
LLigetfa said:
I could say the same for the old brace and adjustable bit that I grew up with. Come to think of it, I'm sure the brace and bit was faster, except in tight spaces where you had to ratchet it.
Click to expand...
I still have 2 of those ratchet bit braces and a whole lot of auger bits
 
I ground off the hex ends of gramps old auger bits and they work fine in most drills up to about 1"

He also left me with a 3 speed hand drill, with quick change gears, of the greatest beauty and construction. It went away with one of my workers, and now all of the classic tools are locked up. Much easier than lugging a generator to a gate job.

http://www.angels.galootcentral.com/chuckzitur/geared_drills.htm

As a afterthought, I would try a and design out ANY 4" holes in framing lumber. I built many a house and never drilled a hole for a 3" pipe. Also, not many timbers will allow such a huge hole structurally, code wise.
 
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ballvalve said:
I ground off the hex ends of gramps old auger bits and they work fine in most drills up to about 1"

He also left me with a 3 speed hand drill, with quick change gears, of the greatest beauty and construction. It went away with one of my workers, and now all of the classic tools are locked up. Much easier than lugging a generator to a gate job.

http://www.angels.galootcentral.com/chuckzitur/geared_drills.htm

As a afterthought, I would try a and design out ANY 4" holes in framing lumber. I built many a house and never drilled a hole for a 3" pipe. Also, not many timbers will allow such a huge hole structurally, code wise.
Click to expand...

The auger bits I have are all tapered square ends fro the brace's chuck. Some of them, I also have ground down to use in a power drill. I've even used one of those bits occasionally as a faucet seat removal wrench because of its shape.:o
 
I manage to keep most toilets indoors. Since I design my homes, I design out the stupidity of the average designer. How many of you look at plans and want to choke the designer?

Plywood and walls respond well to any saw or hole saw. A carving blade on a tiny Stihl saw is the magic do all tool. You'll never pick up a sawz-all again except to cut a nail or a steel roof... No cord needed. Never leave home without one.

I must admit I used a hated sawzall to cut up a 100 pound lamb this weekend. A nail embedded wood blade makes great loin chops.

My latest house is all trusses, walls and roof combined. Some 1" holes for wire in interior walls only. Not a single hole otherwise.

Dont forget that around here, its almost all slab on grade, so your 3" is out of sight. If you dont scatter toilets around the 2 story house like a Microsoft managers 40 valley roof McMansion, then its easy to run your turds straight out an easy run. And they will thank you for it.
 
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LLigetfa said:
Sawzall works wonders too on the double top plate and/or any structural beam that gets in the way.
Click to expand...

One of those type plumbers did this 41 years ago when my house was built. Sole plate same thing. 3 inch copper in a 2x4 wall.
House still in one piece after several hurricanes. Not much original insulation back then either, but back then, oil was REALLY Cheap!
 

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