Can I solder a copper to brass threaded connection?

Scott_V

Scott_V

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I've got a very slow leak from a threaded connection: copper female, brass male. I'm unable to tighten the connection with a wrench. Teflon tape was used in the threaded joint which might be a show stopper for soldering. I was thinking it might be possible to burn the away tape, then swet flux and solder into the threaded joint. Anyone ever try this?
 
OK, thanks....that's what I thought. It's the connection from a shower riser to the PBV. Should have swetted the joint, instead swetted a threaded copper connector onto the riser and threaded that assembly onto the PBV. I was concerned about overheating the PBV and damaging the cartridge. I've since called Grohe and they said it was safe to solder directly to their 35015 PBV. Should have called them first. Now I get to remove a tile to do the repair.

Do you agree it's safe to swet copper to a brass PBV? The PBV acts as a heat sink and it takes forever to heat it enough to melt solder.
 
Sweating copper to a brass fitting certainly can be done, but it's often a bit more difficult than copper to copper because the brass fitting is much heavier than the copper so heating the joint can be tricky. That said, I think your problem may be the Teflon tape.
 
Many of the copper threaded fittings made in China are poorly cut (dull dies and taps). IF you don't want to solder things together, take the joint apart and use BOTH pipe dope and tape. My guess is that the rough threads are preventing a good seal with the teflon alone. Pipe dope alone would work, but belt and suspenders works, too.
 
jadnashua said:
Many of the copper threaded fittings made in China are poorly cut (dull dies and taps). IF you don't want to solder things together, take the joint apart and use BOTH pipe dope and tape. My guess is that the rough threads are preventing a good seal with the teflon alone. Pipe dope alone would work, but belt and suspenders works, too.
Click to expand...

Its far worse than dull cutters which slow down production, its WRONG SPECS of the cutters and machines [12 year old kid?] that make them too big or small or deep. Garbage. I have Mike'd some nipples a good 1/16" under OD for the threads. And the metallurgy? Good luck.
 
cacher_chick said:
Take the cartridge out, clean and flux the threaded surfaces and solder her up.
Click to expand...

What if it is a Him, not a Her.

If you want to half ass it, just put JB Weld on it.

Don't even have to take the cartridge out.

Tom Sawyer said:
Take the joint apart and fit it right. No solder, pipe dope
Click to expand...

True That...


There is no direct/exact conversion from Metric to our US standards.
They are just enough off size ID/OD/TPI that they do not fit properly.


DonL
 
Last edited:
If you threaded the adapter ON to the valve, that implies a male thread which also means the copper tubing should have been able to slide INTO the port and be soldered to it, without an adapter. To solder the threads, you HAD to clean them, put flux on the two surfaces, screw the two pieces together, and then apply solder while heating the joint. It CANNOT be done after the thread is tightened.
 
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