Three ways to plumb a toilet in a slab

Mcnattyp

Mcnattyp

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Option 1 (the PVC is just there for discussion):

IMG_1251.jpg

Option 2:

IMG_1252.jpg

Option 3:

IMG_1253.jpg

Please view and discuss which one is the "best" way to plumb a toilet.

In all cases, north of the picture is a bathroom sink, shower and washing machine. The visible parts are 3", the northward run would be bushed down to 2". Southward is a sewage pump, about three feet away in a direct line.

Thank you folks! I love terrylove!
 
Unless there is some reason for doing it one of those 3 ways, I would not use any of them. I would either position the Y so it angled directly to the closet bend, or use a combo to turn sideways to the bend. And I would NEVER use an internal closet flange, ESPECIALLY an all plastic one.
 
hj said:
Unless there is some reason for doing it one of those 3 ways, I would not use any of them. I would either position the Y so it angled directly to the closet bend, or use a combo to turn sideways to the bend. And I would NEVER use an internal closet flange, ESPECIALLY an all plastic one.
Click to expand...

Boy does that bring back memories of a debate that raged for weeks LOL BTW, I is in your camp there.
I'm not enamored with any of the above either but if I had to pick it would be option #2
 
Son of a biscuit, that would be the most obvious solution. Option 4:

IMG_1254.jpg


Now explain why not an internal closet flange? Without it, I can't figure out how to sit the flange flush with the finished concrete floor, unless I just get the height absolutely right with the flange in place. I'd prefer to leave the end of the pipe sticking up during the pour instead of the flange attached.

Thanks so much hj.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Regarding the inside flange question, I should state that it is a 4x3 closet bend so the ID of that inside flange is more than 3". Also, my basement slab is going to be the finished floor height, no flooring on top.
 
I know it is a 4x3 closet bend, otherwise, I would have commented on that also. I wrap the riser with a cardboard "closet bend sleeve" and remove it after the concrete is poured. Then glue a "slip on" flange to it. Option 4 would be my choice, but as you are finding out, there are MANY ways to do something, so it depends on the installer which way it goes.
 
Ah-ha, a cardboard sleeve, what a great idea. I had thought of a wooden sleeve of some kind, now it makes so much sense. I will do that, thank you! (And get a metal flange.)
 
There is also a commercially available plastic cap with a styrofoam support that slips over the pipe during the pour. I generally use foam sill seal and duct tape though.
 
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