Water Heater Drain Valve
- Thread starter Craig99
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I don't know that particular unit, but WH drain valves are generally threaded. Many of the pros will tell you that the best thing to do is to take out the factory valve, and replace it with a brass nipple and a full-port ball valve. That way, future flushing of the WH is much easier without the possibility of getting small chunks of debris caught in a conventional valve.
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Craig99
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I assumed it was threaded but never have replaced one. No pipe or nut sticking out to get a wrench on while I twist off the valve, so I was afraid I might loosen whatever connection the drain valve is threaded onto. Can't see anything. Are the drain valves usually connected to a copper threaded pipe that's soldered so there is no connection to break or drip? Of course, you can break a soldered connection if the valve doesn't come off easy enough.
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Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
Cheap plastic and usually come out. Turn SLOW and easy. Usually a flat on the valve body. Use the ballvalve with a brass nipple.
Connected direct into a steel bushing.
Connected direct into a steel bushing.
Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
No nipple, extension is part of valve. Standard 3/4 thread.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
Just to back-up what already has been suggested. Get rid of the piece of crap that comes on the tank and replace with brass nipple and 1/4 turn full port ball valve. I added a bit of copper pipe to the outlet side of the valve and extended it to a floor drain that is just a couple of feet from the tank. The T/P also is piped to the floor drain. Makes draining the tank simple and if the T/P pops or is opened for testing, the water has a place to go.
hj
Master Plumber
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IT is threaded. You need about a 3" brass nipple and a 3/4" fip hose valve to replace it. You will NOT find any parts to repair it. The easiest repair is to screw a hose cap onto the valve if it is just dripping. There is also a 3/4", 1/4 turn ball valve with an integral hose thread outlet and brass cap for the hose thread.
Craig99
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Thanks guys. I've got a couple of 3/4 full port valves in the garage, just need to get the nipple. Bradford came with brass valve. Stem is leaking. I drain about a quart of water or until it runs clear monthly and also use it to fill my carpet machine. The port valve is a better way to go.
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The only thing I don't like about a full port 1/4 turn valve is that it is easier for young children to get into trouble with this. On my WHs I take the handle off and also put a hose cap on the threads as well just for safety.
Redwood
Master Plumber
Bradford White comes with a 1/4 turn ball valve already....
No handle just a screwdriver slot....
I suspect it is one of the older ones where there is a packing nut that can be snugged....
No handle just a screwdriver slot....
I suspect it is one of the older ones where there is a packing nut that can be snugged....
Tom Sawyer
In the Trades
If it's just the stem leaking than tighten the packing nut.
Craig99
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The Bradford I've got came with a regular faucet with the screw slot, good for safety, but a pain to open and close fast. I replaced it with a 1/4 turn ball valve. The inside diameter is obviously much larger for sediment flow. The packing was shot on the original.
Redwood
Master Plumber
Yea it looked like this one and flowed whenever the screwdriver slot lined up with the drain and stopped when it was across it....
Just like a 1/4 turn valve...
Craig99
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Looked like that on outside, but mine screwed down and up for flow adjustment like regular hose faucet. Just a couple of rubber washers in it. Could of repaired it if I had the right size. I did pick up today a 1/4 turn, female thread one side, hose bib on the other that hj mentioned.I'll swap it out someday.
