How does this Basic Washer Set-Up look?

I'm getting my plumbing feet wet with a laundry room remodel. I have the pipes assembled in this picture but not glued yet. The left T is a 1 1/2" vent which ties into a 2" vent in the ceiling. The 3" down is the start of a stack that will have a master bath added to it from upstairs. I had to extend the length of my drop pipe from 8" to 24" as I noticed code says 18" minimum. Thanks for your feedback!

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

2" p-trap and trap arm.
1-1/2" vent, which on the horizontal should be vented with a combo fitting, not a Santee.
You may want to pick up some hammer arrestors for the washer. They can thread onto the back of the machine and then the hoses attach to them.

Your inspector may allow the santee in that position, they don't in Washington State.
What part of Alaska?

Here is a combo, not turned the right way for your job though.

Thanks Terry. I guess I'm not familiar with the term 'combo fitting' and I chose the sweeping Santee to provide enhanced air flow. I'll look into the 'combo'. Also, I read that the flexability of PEX eliminates water hammer. Is this counter to what you've experienced? I'll look into the device you recommend, thanks for the advice!

I'm in Anchorage now, via Spokane last summer.

PS: Thank you for this forum! You may remember my post regarding a sub-grade shower drain that was installed without a p-trap based on bad advice. As a result of the feedback received on here, my contractor and I wll be opening the floor back up and finding a way to fit the p-trap and proper vent into the space.
Happy Thanksgiving!

A combo is a single fitting which replicates a WYE with a 45º ell coming off. In general terms, it is a broader sweep than the santee. The code all has to do with the likeihood of clogging the vent with waste from the pipe. A santee is used to send waste horizontally, into a vertical pipe. As terry said, some codes will accept that santee in your vent situation, some codes require all vent fittings below the flood rim to be "vent" configuration rather than "drainage" configuration.

It is not a big deal at all, UNLESS you have an inspector who rejects it!

On PVC pipe, the socket to pipe joint is an interference fit...IOW, you can't bottom the pipe out in there until you apply the cement which literally melts the top layer and the pipe can then be pushed to the bottom. I don't know if ABS works the same way. If it does, you'll find you are short, since dry fitting it means, even if you have it 'tight', it is not bottomed, and it will be when you add the cement. This can be a major pain, as each joint adds more to the overall length deficit. the only reliable way to do this is to actually measure and then cut, not try to assemble then measure on dry fittings.

Yes, ABS is also built as interference fit

Isn't that a combo over there on the right going into your 3" stack?

I never was able to find combos @ the Depot so always resorted to "making" them with a WYE and a 45deg street elbow. I then found them at lowes, it's cheaper than making it with 2 pieces.

Like Terry said it all depends where you are. I think for venting (as your using) in my locale it is permitted, just not for drainage. There have been many a thread about Santees on their back. You can't go wrong with what has already been recommended to you.

quote; As terry said, some codes will accept that santee in your vent situation, some codes require all vent fittings below the flood rim to be "vent" configuration rather than "drainage" configuration.

You have it reversed. Most codes call for ALL fittings below the overflow level to be "drainage" style NOT vent type. As long as there is a vent between the trap and the vertical connection, the connection to the vertical pipe can be either a sanitary tee or a combo. If there were no vent, then it would HAVE to be a sanitary tee.

Yes I got those backwards.....I am blaming the turkey. That's my story and I am sticking to it!!!!!!

Yeah, blame the turkey, now that he is not around to defend himself.