Replace or fix cast iron toilet flange???

A leaded connection is the strongest. And, you'll notice it doesn't even have holes to screw it down to the subfloor, as the metal to metal solid connection should be adequate (but doesn't hurt, and is important if things can move, which shouldnt' happen with CI). The sealing surface must be clean and smooth to install the 'clamping' type flanges. Those require the thing to be anchored to the subflooring (ideally, through the finished floor into the subflooring). It's better to have a full-bore opening if you ever need to use that as a cleanout rather than choking it off, but on a 4" pipe, at the toilet, it shouldn't be an impact as the outlet of a toilet is rarely over 3" (the largest one I know of), and most are closer to 2-1/8" or so.

jadnashua said:

A leaded connection is the strongest. And, you'll notice it doesn't even have holes to screw it down to the subfloor, as the metal to metal solid connection should be adequate (but doesn't hurt, and is important if things can move, which shouldnt' happen with CI). The sealing surface must be clean and smooth to install the 'clamping' type flanges. Those require the thing to be anchored to the subflooring (ideally, through the finished floor into the subflooring). It's better to have a full-bore opening if you ever need to use that as a cleanout rather than choking it off, but on a 4" pipe, at the toilet, it shouldn't be an impact as the outlet of a toilet is rarely over 3" (the largest one I know of), and most are closer to 2-1/8" or so.

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The OD of the pipe is in very good condition...When you say clean and smooth for a 'clamping' type flange, what is clean and smooth for cast iron? The majority of the original tar is still on the OD of the pipe.

If you are going to use a flange that clamps on or in a pipe, the surface you clamp it to must be clean and smooth or the seal will be at risk. It needs to be fairly clean to do a leaded joint as well.

jadnashua said:

If you are going to use a flange that clamps on or in a pipe, the surface you clamp it to must be clean and smooth or the seal will be at risk. It needs to be fairly clean to do a leaded joint as well.

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I came to the conclusion that I had two choices, (1) find a plumber that would reset the cast iron closet collar, or (2) use a retrofit...

I considered all the options...a retrofit seemed to be the most logical for my situation. In the end, I chose the Sioux brand to complete the job.



I did have to trim the pipe (that part really sucked), but everything worked out great in the end.

plumber1 said:

Forget the drill business and just take a 3/4" cold chisel and whack the flange from inside to out, right at the outside of the lead but from the inside of the joint.

Then pry the broken flange off and cut the lead into with a wood chisel and pull it out with your channel locks. Should take less than 60 seconds normally.

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I see this is a pretty old thread, but not nearly as old as the broken flange in my daughters "new" house. I've removed the broken flange with a couple of whacks on a cold chisel with 2# sledge. It went surprisingly easily. The lead came out in one complete ring, the flange in three pieces. The Big Box Depot says they have no cast iron stuff and didn't seem to have any clue as to "oakum and lead".

The toilet drain pipe goes down into a mostly solid concrete section of the foundation, but around the pipe are large voids and there is no place to mount anykind of expansion insert to secure the flange as you would with wood flooring.

If I can find the correct flange, oakum, and lead I'm not shy about performing the repair, but have a couple of questions not addressed in the early parts of this thread.

1. Will a new cast iron flange with lead seal adequately secure the toilet without being otherwise fixed to the surrounding floor? I wonder if the broken flange was partially due to no other mechanical connection to the floor.

2. How do you secure the flange at the proper level while doing the insertion of oakum and pouring of lead? I saw some pics with thin wood strips supporting a flange. If I use that method I assume I would want to strip the linoleum, press and stick tiles and luan plywood layers that are presently on the concrete. Then once flooring re-done the top surface of the flange would be properly aligned. (level with finished floor surface?)

3. Would it perhaps be wise to fill in the gaps around the drain pipe with stones and concrete and bring the level up to floor level and use the flange I already purchased. I would then use masonry drill to put expansion inserts in the floor to mount the flange securely to prevent movement. The flange I already have reduces the drain to 3" and has a rubber gasket and a ridged pipe the pushes down into the drain pipe to create a seal.



Photo illustrates gap in concrete around flange. Flange pictured is the one mentioned in #3.

If the flange is leaded onto a drain embedded in a concrete slab, it should be strong enough to stand on its own. If you end up using a plastic or compression type flange, it should be anchored to the floor. The proper place for the flange is on Top of the finished floor, not level with it.

I've never done a leaded joint. But, I think you'll find that once you have the oakum packed in, the flange will stay where you want it while the lead is poured in. Most people don't have the proper tools, so it may be just cheaper to have a plumber do it for you since most people won't be using them again for a long time, if ever.

First time home owner with a damaged flange. Not sure if its ABS and if so how to remove from downpipe.

Any advice would be great.

David Cheitel said:

First time home owner with a damaged flange. Not sure if its ABS and if so how to remove from downpipe.

Any advice would be great.

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What about it makes you think it is damaged?
A magnet will not stick to PVC.

To post a new thread:

Reach4 said:

What about it makes you think it is damaged?
A magnet will not stick to PVC.

To post a new thread:

Click Forums, which gets you to http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php
Click the name of the forum that you want to post into.
On the right, click on "Post New Thread".​

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The right hand side bolt channel is worn and the bolt does not sit securely and leads to wobble when toilet mounted

David Cheitel said:

The right hand side bolt channel is worn and the bolt does not sit securely and leads to wobble when toilet mounted

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A repair ring can give your closet bolts a firm hold
Superior Model # 21015 repair ring has mounting tabs outside.
PASCO 21013 is similar in red.

The Sioux Chief Ringer is another kind of repair ring that may fit your needs. It does not have the ears. https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...ainless-steel-ring/886-mr/p-1444442703434.htm