Framing inside basement glass block windows

Cacher_Chick

Cacher_Chick

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I am in the process of finishing my basement and am not sure how to proceed with the window boxes. The windows are glass block which is surrounded by concrete block.

I was thinking of finishing using wood for a deep "sill" and drywall on the top and sides but am unsure as to how to frame it or deal with the transition between the concrete and the glass block given the small margins?

Any ideas will be appreciated!
 

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I'll snap a pic right now of how I did my basement windows. Not glass block, but exact layout as you have.
 
Well, I'm stuck and can't figure out how to upload files here.

I have done exactly as you have with framing. In one area, I did drywall on the bottom and sides of the opening, left a gap so it's not touching the walls just in case water should get into the window.

In my basement office, I framed it all in nice wood. They both look really nice. Just wish I could upload the image.

OK, I think the image uploaded...

Ignore the fact that it's pretty dirty, don't use that corner of the basement often and still need to finish repainting the window.
 

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Sorry to say, but both of those look pretty rough to me, JOHN_P.

I would just do a simple drywall return right into the glass block. Why you would want to leave the block exposed is beyond me. Just use some of the L edge for 1/2" drywall where it meets the glass block and call it a day.

What dimensions did you rough in that framing to? What does it match up with the cinder block?
 
Thx for being honest. :)

In my case, I couldn't drywall to cover the block because it would have left too narrow a gap to open the window, but yes I could have finished it off a little nicer for sure with some thinner material.

Actually when they are clean, they look pretty nice, not perfect, but nice. :)
 
Yes, you have to work with what you've got.

In this fellows case though, he doesn't have to worry about opening the window at all.

The reason I asked what the rough in dimension is:

I would subtract 1" from width and height of the opening in the block for the framing rough in, and use 1/2" rigid foam between the block and the drywall and use the proper adhesives on that end.
 
hj said:
I would frame around the opening, then use construction adhesive to fasten the drywall to the block, while nailing the front edge to the wood framing.
Click to expand...

Thats what I was saying, but I added the 1/2" of foam between the board and the block because of condensation concerns, I don't know what sort of climate the original poster lives in though.
 
The glass block is a poor insulator and is occasionally wet with condensation. It probably would be best to finish the drywall short of the glass.

Thanks for the ideas guys, I think I have enough to carry on now.
 
I'm completing a similar project... why use drywall given the potential for moisture in this location? I was going to coat an outdoor semigloss paint on #2 pine 1x10s, and install over 1/2" R-3 Foamular. My windows are only 10 x 33" so the cost of the pine wouldn't be exorbitant. How would you finish the edge of the DW or board next to the glass block?
 
The half inch foam is a good idea as a thermal and capillary break on the pine. The performance advantage of XPS (Foamular) over cheap EPS is temporary, no matter what the "lifetime warranty" says- it'll eventually drop to R2.1 @ 1/2" , the same as Type -II EPS (1.5lbs per cubic foot nominal density.)

Leaving a 1/8"-1/4" gap from the edge of the board would allow it to be caulked with polyurethane caulk for a paintable high-reliability air & moisture seal.
 
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