Liberty Pump Switch Reliability

Wraujr

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All this talk about Zoeller switches on M53 has me looking at the Liberty pumps.
Specifically, the mobel 257 has a float switch that is a VMF which appears
to be magnetic with a float. Any experience with the reliability of this
technology????

Also any opinion about 257 (cast iron housing) vs 237 (aluminum housing)??
 
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I know this is a VERY old post, but now 10 years later does anyone have any opinions on this? (VMF switch and the aluminum vs cast iron)?
 
I've had excellent results using a HydroCheck HC6000 "Hi-Lo Sump Pump Controller" with a manual pump. No floats to hang up and no mechanical switches to go bad. There are two sensors so you can set the on/off height where it works best for your situation and to reduce short cycling.

I also use a Basepump water powered backup sump pump. If you are on public water and not on a well they work great.

I've installed a few Liberty model 230 pumps (manual, no switch) that are powder coated aluminum without any issues.
I hope this helps.
Jim
 
I've had excellent results using a HydroCheck HC6000 "Hi-Lo Sump Pump Controller" with a manual pump. No floats to hang up and no mechanical switches to go bad. There are two sensors so you can set the on/off height where it works best for your situation and to reduce short cycling.

I also use a Basepump water powered backup sump pump. If you are on public water and not on a well they work great.

I've installed a few Liberty model 230 pumps (manual, no switch) that are powder coated aluminum without any issues.
I hope this helps.
Jim
What about the Liberty 237/257? Can you totally remove the float, and keep the magnetic switch in the ON position and use the electronic float sensors like the HydroCheck HC6000?
 
What about the Liberty 237/257? Can you totally remove the float, and keep the magnetic switch in the ON position and use the electronic float sensors like the HydroCheck HC6000?
I don't know. I expect you could rig something with pvc pipe and nylon ties that would keep the float from rising.

I presume that the 237 is available in your local store, and that the 230 is not. Or maybe you are thinking of using the included float switch initially, and converting later.
 
I don't know. I expect you could rig something with pvc pipe and nylon ties that would keep the float from rising.

I presume that the 237 is available in your local store, and that the 230 is not. Or maybe you are thinking of using the included float switch initially, and converting later.
Exactly. I can only get the 237/257 in the store. THIS video shows how easy it is to remove the float on a 237/257, but it seems the switch will then be in the off position (because it drops down?) instead of always up/ON which is what you want if you were to use the electronic float sensors and piggy back the plug. I guess you can always leave the float intact and zip tie it up to keep it up/ON but I would prefer to take it off if possible. Thanks!
 
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Just heard back from Liberty. If you want to use an external Hydrocheck electronic float switch to get better range because the Liberty 237/257 is only a 3 inch range, or even if the switch fails, they don't recommend zip tying up the float in the ON position. Since that switch is never submerged underwater when working as intended, who knows if it will always work properly when kept in the ON position when totally submerged.

If you want to use another float system (or if the switch fails), I think the best bet is to use something like a Superior/ProFlo submersible sump pump that has a separate electrical cord for the vertical float and one for the motor which is always on.
 
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Effluent pumps make good sump pumps.

 
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Thanks. Opening my eyes to new possibilities! In that case, I would need order my Hydrocheck electronic float switch and have it on hand before I install the effluent pump as a sump pump
 
I am partial to
I have not bought from that store, but they have been around for a while.



The BWC1 runs for 10 seconds after the floats have dropped.
 
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