How should I do this?

SuperMatttheHero

SuperMatttheHero

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Here's a picture to help show what I'm trying to do. The bottom of the picture is where lowest point is (where the pipe drops down and out to the sewer).

I understand that the Fernco flexible fitting shown is not allowed to be buried, nor is the 2" sanitary tee on its back as shown on the left. The 4" cast iron pipe near the top of the picture is connected to a sink and washing machine, as well as a tub.

How should I do this? I need to drain another sink and shower coming from the left with 2" pvc pipe.
 

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It will be a drain that also has a vent teed off of it (for a sink).

Had some bad luck using those "no hub couplings" from Lowes. The outside diameter of the cast iron pipe is different from the PVC, and causes the stainless steel sleeve to deform and pop as you tighten it. I will need to get some better "transition" couplings from a real plumbing store.
 
I just ordered a couple of the proper Ferncos from Grainger. I have a similar situation going between CI and PVC.

I guess that other line (left) is from the shower, correct?

You will probably need a cleanout at the base of the stack for the sink.

I'll let the pros help you on the details of the layout.
 
You should sleeve it - the flexible foam pipe insulation will do.

Otherwise it rubs against the concrete as it expands & contracts whenever it changes temperature - good recipe for a leak.
 
Soldered fittings are not allowed under slabs.
Plumbers would loop soft copper up and put fittings above grade.

A double wye doesn't really work on the horizontal, the inlets need grade, which you can't do with that fitting.

Putting a combo, or wye with 45 up into the wall like Winslow mentioned is a good idea.

If you have cast that is 4-1/8" OD, then pick up some mission couplings that are cast to copper sizing.
A standard no-hub coupling may be too large with the smaller size pipe that is old.

Modern no-hub cast iron is 4-3/8" OD

When I'm cutting wyes into old cast pipe, I like to use cast no-hub wyes.
 
Last edited:
Terry said:
A double wye doesn't really work on the horizontal, the inlets need grade, which you can't do with that fitting.

Putting a combo, or wye with 45 up into the wall like Winslow mentioned is a good idea.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I understood everything that you wrote except the above. Why doesn't the double wye work? I checked it with a level, and it is sloped more than 1/4" per foot. Does it need to be sloped more than that?

When you say "putting a combo or wye with 45 up into the wall", are you talking about replacing the double wye that I have there, or are you only talking about the curvy 1-1/2" section of PVC shown on the right?
 
I would be more concerned with what is happening outside the pictures as far as the drainage is concerned. Here, the double "Y" would not be a factor, BUT every inspector I have ever know, and every code I have ever read, does NOT permit solder joints under concrete, and since "brazing" the joints is a "destructive", and time consuming, practice, we NEVER make any joints in copper below the concrete.
 
No soldered joints below or in a slab.
Double Wye fittings should not be used horizontally
 
Terry said:


Anything is possible in construction.
It's just that some things take more time and money.

Break some more concrete.


​
Click to expand...

But why? UPC, chapter 7 states:

706.3 Horizontal drainage lines connecting with other horizontal drainage lines shall enter through forty-five (45) degree (0.79 rad) wye branches, combination wye and one-eighth [1/8] bend branches, or other approved fittings of equivalent sweep.

Why, if the code says it's OK, do you say that it's not?
 
combo wyes aren't the same as fixture cross fittings like the one you have installed. just break up a little more concrete on either end of the 4" pipe, use a small section of 4" pvc to connect two 4x2 wyes together and install them
 
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