How do I remove a sink drain pipe?

Yea I would definitely just cut off the end thats partially exposed with an angle grinder. Go at it from all sides, then grind down the nipple to flat after you are done, then just put a fernco on.. Seems like a lot of work to try to remove it when its not absolutely necessary.
 
I let the pipe soak overnight. I still can not turn the pipe.
I think at this point I just want to get the sink back to a working order as fast as possible (the kids have not washed their hands in week!!).

I like the fernco idea. I have never used them before but they seem simple enough once I figure out what size to get.

As far as cutting the nipple...I do have a sawsall and a good drill. I don't have an angle grinder.

Dunbar suggested to use a fused carbide sawzall blade right beyond the thread pattern. That is something I could probably try to do.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks again.
 
Fernco is a brand name that has taken on a meaning similar to Kleenex. What you want is a nohub connector. This is a thin rubber sleeve with a metal reinforcement jacket over it. The Fernco is often referred to as a simple (thicker) rubber pipe with hose clamps at each end and no reinforcement. Those are only allowed underground where the pipe ends can be properly supported to keep the pipes aligned. Can't use that legally in the wall above ground. The nohub is also shorter, so it gives you a bit more flexibity - you don't need as much of a stub sticking out. It will be tough cutting the pipe off square with the access you have, which is what you should have when finished.
 
oh no ! the kids need clean hands.

You can probably do it with a long metal cutting sawzall blade. you'll have to hold the saw right up against your tile. it won't be pretty but should be possible. doesn't have to be the neatest job on the planet to be able to get a fernco securely on there. failing that, you can get 4" angle grinder for $10-15 on sale at harbor freight and just get some metal cutting wheels there for cheap if you have one locally--this would make the job slightly easier. just get it done
 
You may be tempted to ignore this since my last advice worked out so great...The threaded part is thinnest since they removed metal cutting threads, and it's rusted even thinner on the inside.The later pics show threads only protruding from the wall, and it 's taking less force to crush the pipe than to break it free. I dont think I'd use a grinder, but even the cheap hacksaw frames have square pegs holding the blade. Rotate 'em 90 degrees so the blade is 90 to the frame-which will be paralell with the floor- and go to town w/ an 18 tpi blade.Lots of tension on the blade to keep it straight! No grinder sparks, no sawzall marks. I think a long blade riding the surface of the wall might scratch it up- I'm assuming the tiled wall means a pedestal sink.
 
ilya-I like the hacksaw idea. I think I have one someplace, I will buy a blade for it. Might take a bit longer then a sawsall but I could give it a shot.
Like Marty53 said... "just get it done":)
 
I have cut off pipe as far in as I could get.

I wanted to confirm that I got the correct type of connector for the pipe.
I bought a Fernco type connector, it is 1.5 cast iron to 1.5-1.25 tubular connector.

Kinda ugly looking but I guess if I can't get the pipe off its the best solution.

Thanks.

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1-1/4" is ok for a bathroom sink trap.

It is ugly, but now you can put a new vanity and sink over it and you will be the only one who knows. :o
 
Lookin' good! Oh, the fun you had. That heavy guage metal lath and plaster is hell on sawzall blades. I'd be jealous if I did'nt have some in my future...
 
While that fitting may work, it isn't allowed there. Not sure of the best way, but if I had to do it, I'd use a no-hub fitting with a short stub of pvc or abs, then use a Desanko drain fitting. Those are called different things in different places, but essentially it is a reducer with a compression fitting that would allow you to insert the trap arm. Hopefully, one of the pros will step in and fix you up right.
 
Here, the boots for tubular are o.k. in lieu of banded couplings since they're exposed.I recently discovered this. BUT! Maybe not in your area.
 
I should have thought out my last response more carefully. Check with YOUR inspector! What mine said doesn't mean squat for you. Jadnashua mentions what I call a trap adaptor and the banded coupling approved for above ground use. He's on the right track. My appologies for spoutin' off without being sure of myself.
 
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