VTXdude
New Member
Guys, I know I have become the resident pita but I have these questions I'm hoping that can be answered
1) Does it make a difference drafting wise if the draft hood is not perfectly centered over the flue on WH?
2) Should the draft hood get hot to the touch? Also should the connecting pipe on top be totally sealed with no gaps where it comes in contact with the hood? I have a 4 inch pipe on on the standard 3 inch hood as you can see in the pics I have posted in other threads...small gap in the back but hot air goes up right?
3) Does BTU's of the water heater play a role in requirements for venting or drafting? In other words a 36000 btu WH draft easier than a 40000 btu one (if that makes sense) Is 4 inch vent pipe too big for either one of those WH?
4) How hot should the vent pipe get? reason I ask is that at my folks over the weekend and the vent pipe did not seem to heat up all that much, draft hood was cool to touch.....my vent pipe gets hot and I mean real hot
5)How high should the flame on the burner be? The flame on this Kenmore is tall and looks like it licks the bottom of the tank.....sometimes it is blue with orange points here and there and other times seems yellow
6) And finally.....could all this be traced back to the Water heater itself? I have been toying with the idea of either bouncing to a lower BTU heater (36000) or going with a Bradford White... Since BW doesn't make a 36000 BTU water heater...maybe a Rheem or even a GE which has to be better than the Kenmore.
My reasoning for the Bradford White is what looks like a superior air intake system for primary air.....and with a better air intake isn't the draft and venting better? Or am I just chasing a marketing ploy?
Or should I bag all of this and surrender to electric?
I so thought I was all set after this past Monday however it does not appear to be the case maybe the adhesive was just a masking agent on the other pipes and combustion just isn't working on this WH the way it should
One would not think that it should be so difficult to replace a water heater....my 20 year old Vanguard worked perfectly with the 3 inch badly laid out venting and all of a sudden this new Kenmore with its FVIR system can't seem to vent worth a crap...wtf??? I am so frustrated...thats why I keep bouncing back to the Bradford White or a lesser BTU Rheem/GE hoping that it will perform better than the Kenmore
Thank you so much guys...I know I have probably mad a lot of eyes roll and heads shake but I do appreciate the help and words you have provided
Thanks
1) Does it make a difference drafting wise if the draft hood is not perfectly centered over the flue on WH?
2) Should the draft hood get hot to the touch? Also should the connecting pipe on top be totally sealed with no gaps where it comes in contact with the hood? I have a 4 inch pipe on on the standard 3 inch hood as you can see in the pics I have posted in other threads...small gap in the back but hot air goes up right?
3) Does BTU's of the water heater play a role in requirements for venting or drafting? In other words a 36000 btu WH draft easier than a 40000 btu one (if that makes sense) Is 4 inch vent pipe too big for either one of those WH?
4) How hot should the vent pipe get? reason I ask is that at my folks over the weekend and the vent pipe did not seem to heat up all that much, draft hood was cool to touch.....my vent pipe gets hot and I mean real hot
5)How high should the flame on the burner be? The flame on this Kenmore is tall and looks like it licks the bottom of the tank.....sometimes it is blue with orange points here and there and other times seems yellow
6) And finally.....could all this be traced back to the Water heater itself? I have been toying with the idea of either bouncing to a lower BTU heater (36000) or going with a Bradford White... Since BW doesn't make a 36000 BTU water heater...maybe a Rheem or even a GE which has to be better than the Kenmore.
My reasoning for the Bradford White is what looks like a superior air intake system for primary air.....and with a better air intake isn't the draft and venting better? Or am I just chasing a marketing ploy?
Or should I bag all of this and surrender to electric?
I so thought I was all set after this past Monday however it does not appear to be the case maybe the adhesive was just a masking agent on the other pipes and combustion just isn't working on this WH the way it should
One would not think that it should be so difficult to replace a water heater....my 20 year old Vanguard worked perfectly with the 3 inch badly laid out venting and all of a sudden this new Kenmore with its FVIR system can't seem to vent worth a crap...wtf??? I am so frustrated...thats why I keep bouncing back to the Bradford White or a lesser BTU Rheem/GE hoping that it will perform better than the Kenmore
Thank you so much guys...I know I have probably mad a lot of eyes roll and heads shake but I do appreciate the help and words you have provided
Thanks
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