Powder actuated nailer caliber

Hi, folks. On my basement remodel, I'll be using one of these tools to attach pressure treated 2x4's and 2x6's to the poured concrete floor.

Does anybody have a feel for .22 -vs- .27 caliber in this application? I read that some feel that .22 isn't enough to consistantly bury the fastener. Also, which load would most likely yield the best results, yellow #4, or might I need red #5? Of course I'll get several of each to try, but I need to plan ahead because of lack of local availability.

Thanks,
Steve

Back in the day, you couldn't buy that machine without a training cert.from the manufacturer. Anyway, you need to get their chart which shows what load to use for each type of fastener. It can be dangerous to use too big a caliber or too big a load for the application.

Young concrete is a lot easier to penetrate than well-cured ( years ).

I prefer Tapcons, lead anchors and a rotary hammer drill. The slow, safe way that allows you to easily correct your mistakes.

Hi, Ian. I've read many of your posts, and consistantly enjoy them. I read about your experiences with Tapcons when I searched for advice on PAT's. I have a hammer drill, and have used Tapcons in the past, specifically to anchor the building's steel support posts to this floor. Ugh. I have 145 feet of pressure treated bottom plate to install for my walls, and didn't want to spend a whole weekend doing just that. 100 fasteners?

Jimbo, the floor was poured not quite five years ago. The charts show *either* #4 or #5 loads, for *both* .22 and .27. That's why I asked the question in the first place; I don't know which one I'll end up renting. I guess my concealed carry permit doesn't apply toward adequate training?

I used a .22 with yellow loads on 40-y/o concrete and was not enough to fully drive the nails. Most required a 2nd firing to drive them home (I know you aren't really supposed to do that). Some guns (especially the .22 ones it seems) are not rated for the red loads and the red loads in .22 do not seem to be readily available around here. My gun is not rated for the reds and I couldn't find reds anyway in .22, so I had to make due.

Your best bet is to go with the .27 that is rated for reds. Try a small box of yellow loads first. If they don't get the job done, move to reds. The .27 yellow may work for you, but we won't know until you try.

It seems like the fastners for ACQ mostly come in 3" and sometimes 2.5" (I used 3") and come in boxes of 100. I used up 100, but I need a few more. I hate that I have to buy another 100 when I know that I am only going to use 15-20 more. Oh, well.

jimbo said:

Back in the day, you couldn't buy that machine without a training cert.from the manufacturer.

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They should still require a training cert! If you use this tool read all the safety precautions and follow all the safety measures. This can be a dangerous tool of used incorrectly or without the proper safety equipment.

Anyway a #4 should penetrate a floor ok most of the time. It is better to start off with too small a charge. You can shoot one a second time with a #2 if one doesn't go in the first time or just hit it with a hammer.

WEAR HEARING PROTECTION AND EYE PROTECTION!

-rick

I have a Hilti .27 and use red almost all the time. Mine has a little dial that allows me to turn down the impact force so I don't over drive the pins. Pricey, but I love it!

Thanks for the advice, folks; I really appreciate it.

gun

The current anchoring guns are "low velocity" which is why they are readily available. The original ones were "high velocity" and the shots were the actual "bullet" which meant they could not only penetrate the material if you missed the anchor point, but that the "nail" could ricochet afterwards. I was working in an installation at one time and the carpenters were anchoring the plywood to steel bar joists. They were missing and the nails were flying everywhere, so we pulled off the job until they were done.

Ugh. I have 145 feet of pressure treated bottom plate to install for my walls, and didn't want to spend a whole weekend doing just that. 100 fasteners?

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A weekend?

My framing took months of weekends.

Ian Gills said:

A weekend?

My framing took months of weekends.

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You wuss...I was 3 floors up in 8 weeks

I'm a craftsman Dave. Taking my time. Using the best tools and parts.

Thinking as I go along.

And taking lots of breaks. Just like Terry Love Plumbing and Remodel...

plates

If you are going to install that much bottom plate over the weekend, I assume you must be going to use a double bottom plate, since you probably could not construct that much wall framing in two days. Most carpenters would use the PT wood AS the wall's bottom plate. Then nail it to the floor after the wall is positioned.