Testing this new Drain

I'm splicing a new clothes washer drain into my main stack - the stack is is 3" copper.

The stud may need to be notched depending on the solution here.
I may also swap the valve/drain position for more clearance.

anyway, our inspector requires 10lbs of air, or 15' of head as a test -
this is part of a much larger project - you've already helped with the others about a year ago, so i turn to you with this question.

How do i test this? - it only has 4 joints, and 2 banded couplers (? require testing?)!
do i build it, cap the ends and test it on the ground? -

i can't put 15' of head on the main stack, because of a WC just above the connection i'm making. There is access to the space below where one of the couplers will be.

Thanks
Pat


http://www.emania.com/washer.jpg

Couldn't get the embedded image to work - so the link is direct to the image.

fidodie said:

I'm splicing a new clothes washer drain into my main stack - the stack is is 3" copper.

The stud may need to be notched depending on the solution here.
I may also swap the valve/drain position for more clearance.

anyway, our inspector requires 10lbs of air, or 15' of head as a test -
this is part of a much larger project - you've already helped with the others about a year ago, so i turn to you with this question.

How do i test this? - it only has 4 joints, and 2 banded couplers (? require testing?)!
do i build it, cap the ends and test it on the ground? -

i can't put 15' of head on the main stack, because of a WC just above the connection i'm making. There is access to the space below where one of the couplers will be.

Thanks
Pat


http://www.emania.com/washer.jpg

Couldn't get the embedded image to work - so the link is direct to the image.

Click to expand...

The inspector is really gonna be picky enough to make you put an entire test on your system because of that little addition? If that's the case you got quite a job on your hands lol.

I would suggest talking to him and coming up with something else to prove it's not leaking.... 'cause that's crazy

If the new plumding is plastic, generally you are not allowed to do an air test, so stick with the water test, if possible. 15' can be difficult if you have a single storey home (vent outlet probably less than the 15' needed) or you have to consider flooding out the floor above if you are testing a lower floor. See what you can do with the test plugs to try to isolate to just the new addition. As mentioned before, it wouldn't hurt to talk to the inspector to see what his expectations are for this test.

Where I am, the test is 5psi air or 10' water.

Thanks for the tips!

I think I'll contact the inspector - see what he proposes. He's made some suggestions before. (between chuckles of course...)

if i really need to test the system "in place" - then i have a location to put a clean-out/plug below, and i can probably plug the bath group above it with a bit of work.

Hopefully there will not be a code issue with the splice, as it is replacing a bath group - which is being relocated, and will have its own vent. But I will confirm.

It will give me a chance to clean the gutters too.......

Pat