Cycle Stop Valve = Lots of air?

Shutting of the water for a while is what gives the leak time to run the water back and let the air in.

That's what it sounds like to me. When it's running steady, all pipes are under pressure and no way for the air to enter them.

bob...

speedbump said:

Shutting of the water for a while is what gives the leak time to run the water back and let the air in.

That's what it sounds like to me. When it's running steady, all pipes are under pressure and no way for the air to enter them.

bob...

Click to expand...

Sounds right. Now I just want to leave work early to test things out. This whole working to get paid is a real cramp in my style.

Test results

OK, here it is.
I removed the check and left the CSV in place.
I ran and flushed everything for a while until I was satisfied that there was no more air in the pipes.
I closed the house valve and shut off the breaker. Tank was at 68 PSI.
By morning there was zero pressure in the tank.
Today I did the same and checked the pressure at 30 minutes and 1 hour.
At 1 hour, the pressure was down to 56 PSI. The pump starts at ~55.
So here it is. I have a leak that drops a Flex-con WS120 tank from 68 to 56 PSI in 1 hour.
The pump is actually ~60 feet down the well.
Here's a possible fix to reduce pump cycling.
Reinstall the check with a T before and after it.
Across the T, install a small check with a regulator to allow only 3-5 PSI from the tank to the pump while the pump is off and things are leaking. This will reduce the leakage flow rate but not restrict normal operation. The pump line will stay prssureized to avoid air getting in but the pressure will be greatly reduced when off.
Thoughts?
Also, My wife and I agree that something will have to be done about the pump. At 60' down, can I change it myself?

Yes you can change it yourself. It's going to be heavy and an extra pair of hands is highly recommended. Something to clamp the pipe in place while your unscrewing joints, getting tired or just needing a break is recommended also.

Your idea with the check valve and the tees etc. is not a good one. Leave the check valve out like you have it now. If the air quit, your good for a while unless the leak gets worse and starts running the pump a lot more. If it comes on every couple of hours, no big deal. Every couple of minutes, this is a big deal.

bob...

OK. Thanks, Bob. I'll just leave it as is, and enjoy my superb water pressure. When things get worse or it fails, I'll fix it then. Perhaps a variable speed pump this time. certainly one with more ooomph. I'd like it to maintain pressure with more things running.
Thanks, again.

Believe it or not, the CSV valve will do as good a job as a Constant pressure pump and cost a hell of a lot less. And there are no electronics in a CSV to go bad.

If your pressure isn't that great with more things running, blame the plumbing more than the pump. It's hard to get ahead of even a little 1/2hp submersible pump with the amount of water they pump as opposed to the water the house can use.

In my opinion 3/4" plumbing for the main line is any house is too small.

bob...

speedbump said:

Believe it or not, the CSV valve will do as good a job as a Constant pressure pump and cost a hell of a lot less. And there are no electronics in a CSV to go bad.

If your pressure isn't that great with more things running, blame the plumbing more than the pump. It's hard to get ahead of even a little 1/2hp submersible pump with the amount of water they pump as opposed to the water the house can use.

In my opinion 3/4" plumbing for the main line is any house is too small.

bob...

Click to expand...

I've got 1" to the boiler then it branches to 3/4" for the hot and cold trunks. Not enough? Oh well, how often do I run everything anyway? Right?