i was trying to replace a plastic drain valve on my gas water tank that was leaking. as careful as i tried to be it snapped and now part of the threaded pipe is stuck inside. i tried pliers but can't get it out. any suggestions?
how to remove broken drain valve
- Thread starter abfab
- Start date
Irrigation sprinkler supply houses sell a tapered serrated insert, you jam it into the stuck nipple, and twist it out.
doesn't always work,though.
Plastic that's repeatedly heated like that has a short life span.
You might need new water heater.
doesn't always work,though.
Plastic that's repeatedly heated like that has a short life span.
You might need new water heater.
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JohnjH2o1
Plumbing Contractor for 49 years
Use a hacksaw blade and make two cuts 1/4" apart on the inside of the remaining nipple. Be careful to cut just the nipple not the threads on the water heater. Then remove the peace between the two cuts. Then pick the rest out with a small screw driver.
John
John
Gary Swart
In the Trades
It is likely you will scar the threads on the tank a bit, so you should get a thread chaser to run over them and clean them up. I would suggest using a brass nipple and a ball valve as a replacement.
Runs with Bison
Member
When this happened to me about 10-12 years ago the plumber had no idea what to do. I ended up using an old kabar knife and wire brush to scrape out the plastic inside, then painstakingly cleared each thread channel. Then the plumber proclaimed that he did not have a valve that would fit it. I told him to go find a valve and bushing that would fit. This apparently was a novel concept to him. I'm still wondering what is considered a basic part for stocking a plumbing van because he did not have anything with him to do the job.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
I have used a regular 3/4" brass nipple into a 3/4" ball valve for several years. When I got my new heater install recently, I just transferred them to the new tank. The threads in the tank are just regular pipe threads, it's the valves that are pieces of crap.
Master Plumber Mark
Sensitivity trainer and plumber of mens souls
do the hack saw thing....
that works the best...
but you might need a 3/4 tap to clean up ther threads even if
you are careful..
its more fun when the water is pissing out on you
whilst you are doing this....
..
that works the best...
but you might need a 3/4 tap to clean up ther threads even if
you are careful..
its more fun when the water is pissing out on you
whilst you are doing this....
..
JohnjH2o1
Plumbing Contractor for 49 years
that works the best...
but you might need a 3/4 tap to clean up ther threads even if
you are careful..
its more fun when the water is pissing out on you
whilst you are doing this....
Been there done that.
John
Runs with Bison
Member
I've got a 3/4 to 1/2" bushing and 1/2" brass valve that I've held onto from when I replaced that old tank. I've used it for various short term tests. Next time I have to replace the gas valve I will probably install it on the water heater.
And make sure to use a full-port ball valve to better flush out chunks of mineral deposits.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
Go 3/4 all the way! You can flush the tank much quicker and I believe much better with the larger diameter. Also use a ball valve. We're not talking a lot of money here.
Runs with Bison
Member
Are you or how are you securing the ball valve handle so that nobody inadvertently bumps it and produces a real mess/danger to themselves? Cable tie? Or are you putting a plug/hose cap on the end of it?
Using a full port 3/4" ball valve does make the most sense. I haven't priced one of these in brass. I'll start looking for one with hose thread on the outlet.
Using a full port 3/4" ball valve does make the most sense. I haven't priced one of these in brass. I'll start looking for one with hose thread on the outlet.
Gary Swart
In the Trades
You bring up a good point on safety, so I'll expand on the description of my setup. I have a floor drain very close to the water heater. I have a 4" slab poured on top of the basement floor and a 6" high basin enclosing that plus 3 more feet to enclose the floor drain. On the output end of the ball valve I elbow down to the floor of the basin described above then another elbow aimed at the drain. All of this is done with 3/4" copper. Since only my wife and I live in the house I see little danger in the valve being opened accidentally, but even if it was, the water would be expelled on the floor of the basin and not sprayed around the room. If I felt there was a real danger, the handle of the valve could be removed and kept on top of the tank.
The question of safety is a really good one.
What I did was to take off the handle (easy to do - just remove the nut). I also screwed on a hose-end cap with a rubber gasket (intended for closing off the end of a garden hose) for extra protection.
What I did was to take off the handle (easy to do - just remove the nut). I also screwed on a hose-end cap with a rubber gasket (intended for closing off the end of a garden hose) for extra protection.
Runs with Bison
Member
I originally used a hose cap like that on the old water heater years ago because the plastic drain valve wouldn't completely seal after blowing it down.
I've used quarter turn valves a fair bit industrially. They are nice but it is easy to snag something on a handle and blow down a lot of flammable or otherwise nasty gas unexpectedly, so I try to anticipate the possibility when I add one.
My valve is only a few feet from the floor drain and I've been planning to rework the condensate and humidifier drains to there anyway. Adding a copper line to the drain is a possibility. I've got some work to do to prevent water from entering a closet any time water is blown down there anyway. Much of this rework is awaiting replacement of the furnace and AC. I can fix the wall and seal the floor back there once I pull those out.
I've used quarter turn valves a fair bit industrially. They are nice but it is easy to snag something on a handle and blow down a lot of flammable or otherwise nasty gas unexpectedly, so I try to anticipate the possibility when I add one.
My valve is only a few feet from the floor drain and I've been planning to rework the condensate and humidifier drains to there anyway. Adding a copper line to the drain is a possibility. I've got some work to do to prevent water from entering a closet any time water is blown down there anyway. Much of this rework is awaiting replacement of the furnace and AC. I can fix the wall and seal the floor back there once I pull those out.
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hj
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valve
Heat a screwdriver blade red hot and "melt" a groove in the side of the thread remnant. You will have to reheat the blade a few times before you are done, but then the piece will come right out and you did NOT damage the thread. The valve is a common 3/4" pipe thread so any plumber who tells you that it is a special item and does not have a replacement on his truck is either NOT a plumber, or not a very well equiped one. Probably both in your case.
Heat a screwdriver blade red hot and "melt" a groove in the side of the thread remnant. You will have to reheat the blade a few times before you are done, but then the piece will come right out and you did NOT damage the thread. The valve is a common 3/4" pipe thread so any plumber who tells you that it is a special item and does not have a replacement on his truck is either NOT a plumber, or not a very well equiped one. Probably both in your case.
I did this job the other day by pulling the element and pointing my blowtorch at the valve from the inside. I could tell heat was flowing through it by holding my hand in front of the open valve. I grabbed it with slip-joint pliers and when it softened from the heat it unscrewed. An adjustable wrench did NOT work, too soft.
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