Re-soldering question from a DIY'er

Davebutch

Davebutch

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I soldered a pipe on the downstream side of a ½ in ball valve and found a pinhole leak after turning on the valve. I drained the line and let the pipe dry, then heated the connection and removed the pipe from the valve body. How clean does the inside of the connection on the valve need to be before it can be re-soldered? If enough solder is removed to allow the pipe to fit, will that be good enough assuming I then sand and flux the connection? Or does the solder have to be removed to the bare brass?
 
Re-soldering

Yes that will work, !

If you have a 1/2" fitting brush cut the handle off and chuck into your drill
it is a lot easier to get clean that way

inspect your joint very carefull before turning water back on !

I use a automotive style inspection mirror for tight spaces
 
Clean any corrosion, reflux both the socket and pipe, and then resolder. If you can fit it into the socket, you should be good. What often works well is to heat it, then wipe with a clean rag (make sure it isn't syntheic fibers - it will melt and make a mess!). This will get the vast majority of solder off the pipe.
 
From my own meager experience:

Solder will stick to solder AND copper just fine, provided it's all supercleaned and fluxed.
 
hj said:
It just has to be cleaned, not "supercleaned".
Click to expand...

Are you serious? I don't understand the point of your sarcasm except to say, "I'm a pro, you're an idiot."

I meant 'supercleaned' as 'cleaned well'; even the slightest bit of oxidation or dirt has impeded (for ME) a good solder joint.
 
Last edited:
Clean works for me too.

Clean it, flux it, solder it.

Make sure you have a valve open somewhere to let out the exanding air, or the last joint you solder will have a pinhole leak.

soldering_kit.jpg
 
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