Electrical PVC for potable water?

ronquick

ronquick

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I am running 1/2 "water lines to a bathroom in the barn, I ran an additional 1" schedule 40 pvc for a later use spare. I want to use electical sweeps at each end so it can use it for water or wire depending on the need. Is there any health issues if it is used for drinking water?
 
cwhyu2 said:
You can not use electrical PVC for water.You can not use SCH 40 for potable
water.
Click to expand...

I would not say you can not use SCH 40 for potable water, there are many states that allow it for cold water supply only. Illinois is one of them. Now electrical PVC pipe and fittings are not rated for plumbing use.
 
You can use PVC underground for potable water, it is only permitted above ground in some states. There is really nothing to be gained by using long sweeps in a water supply, only in drains where crud is passing through and could clog on a tight turn.
 
SewerRatz said:
Now electrical PVC pipe and fittings are not rated for plumbing use.
Click to expand...


Can you say "why " it is not for plumbing use.
I just left a job where the guy had ran some electrical pipe sch 40, for some of his water line.

If there is a reason it should not be there, I would like to let him know why he should remove it.

Thanks.

Travis



PS, No, it has nothing to do with cleaner or primer. lol
 
For elec conduit, the pressure rating is a problem and flexible PVC has plasticizers that give it flexibility. These leach out and can give water a plastic taste, supposedily non-toxic. Doesn't seem worth it to save a few bucks.
 
Last edited:
SewerRatz said:
I would not say you can not use SCH 40 for potable water, there are many states that allow it for cold water supply only. Illinois is one of them. Now electrical PVC pipe and fittings are not rated for plumbing use.
Click to expand...

This is being used for a bathroom and shower in the barn, Any idea why it is not to be used for hot water? I already have it burried so I I will be using for both. It will be connected in my basement so I would prefer the connection dont come apart.
Thanks for all your input!
 
ronquick said:
This is being used for a bathroom and shower in the barn, Any idea why it is not to be used for hot water? I already have it burried so I I will be using for both. It will be connected in my basement so I would prefer the connection dont come apart.
Thanks for all your input!
Click to expand...

PVC is not rated for hot water , CPVC is rated for use with hot water. Standard PVC becomes pliable and will lose its shape when hot water is used in it.
 
First, PVC is not rated for hot water supply, as far as I know, ever. Then, 1/2" on a long supply will have LOTS of friction, and your flow and pressure will suffer. CPVC is allowed for hot. Both can get brittle as they age. You'd be much better served on a long run to run a bigger pipe, and, chose one with no underground connections.. The pipes designed for this are much more resilient, and if you lay it sort of from side to side of the trench, you won't risk damaging the pipe from expansion and contraction issues...your idea just isn't very good, and won't pass inspection, either.
 
Waterwelldude said:
Can you say "why " it is not for plumbing use.
I just left a job where the guy had ran some electrical pipe sch 40, for some of his water line.

If there is a reason it should not be there, I would like to let him know why he should remove it.

Thanks.

Travis



PS, No, it has nothing to do with cleaner or primer. lol
Click to expand...

To be approved to be used for water service use it must meet these standards for the PVC pipe ASTM D 1785-1996b, ASTM D 2241-1996b, ASTM D 2672-1996a, CSA B137.3-1999 in B137

and the joints must meet these standards to be approved for water service use needs to meet these standards. ASTM D 2855-1996, CSA B137.2-1999 in B137


Now to meet the standards for water distribution pipe ASTM D 1785-1996b,
ASTM D 2241-1996b, ASTM D 2672-1996a, CSA B137.3-1999 in B137

water distribution joints ASTM D 2855-1996, CSA B137.2-1999 in B137, CSA B137.3-1999 in B137
and there is a note for using PVC for water distribution 3 Use for cold or tempered water only.





.
 
Everything used/comes in contact with the water, in a potable water system must be approved to meet NSF Standard 61, or it is not permitted/allowed or used. That is federal law and followed by a states.

Sch 40 PVC is NSF standard 61 and is allowed in most areas under and above ground but codes disallow it inside a house. It is not approved for hot water use because its pressure rating is done at 73*f. For every x degree increase in temp you lose X psi.

Ronquick, you were correct in questioning your choice, so replace the 1/2" PVC which is probably too small due to friction loss for the distance, or use regular 1/2" sch 40 PVC elbows on it. Half inch sch 40 pvc is about equivalent to 3/4" CPVC or 3/4" copper because it is IPS (iron pipe size which maintains the ID, copper etc. is CTS (copper tubing size) and that maintains the OD, so the ID is smaller than IPS pipe.

Tell your buddy not to pressurize his. The best choice is a roll of 1" PE (polyethylene) pipe with one fitting on each end. I'd use 160 psi rated.
 
Gary Slusser said:
Everything used/comes in contact with the water, in a potable water system must be approved to meet NSF Standard 61, or it is not permitted/allowed or used. That is federal law and followed by a states.

Sch 40 PVC is NSF standard 61 and is allowed in most areas under and above ground but codes disallow it inside a house. It is not approved for hot water use because its pressure rating is done at 73*f. For every x degree increase in temp you lose X psi.

Ronquick, you were correct in questioning your choice, so replace the 1/2" PVC which is probably too small due to friction loss for the distance, or use regular 1/2" sch 40 PVC elbows on it. Half inch sch 40 pvc is about equivalent to 3/4" CPVC or 3/4" copper because it is IPS (iron pipe size which maintains the ID, copper etc. is CTS (copper tubing size) and that maintains the OD, so the ID is smaller than IPS pipe.

Tell your buddy not to pressurize his. The best choice is a roll of 1" PE (polyethylene) pipe with one fitting on each end. I'd use 160 psi rated.
Click to expand...

Thanks to everone for the info, I have decided to use the 1" schedule 40 with schedule 40 elbows for the cold water feed line and install a small hot water heater in the barn. I have ran 1/2 copper for the bathroom fixtures.
 
ronquick said:
I am running 1/2 "water lines to a bathroom in the barn, I ran an additional 1" schedule 40 pvc for a later use spare. I want to use electical sweeps at each end so it can use it for water or wire depending on the need.

No No No No No
Click to expand...
 
PVC has materials added to it to facilitate the manufacturing process. Grey electrical PVC has toxic heavy metals added to it, I believe I was told it was Lead , by a major manufacturer of pipe. DO NOT RUN POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS PIPE.
 
I have been in the electrical flied for more than 30 years, a teacher for new electricians, and know plumbing like the back of my hand. Advice:
1. Electrical pvc. Electrical PVC is mainly used for electrical with properties that prevent the break down of the PVC in sun. As stated before by someone else the electrical PVC has special chemicals added for its intended purpose and it's highly highly not recommended to use for any other purpose other than electrical.
2. PVC drinking water. You won't find long radius 90s smaller than 1-1/2 and I disagree with some statements about using long radius 90s instead of short radius 90s. Long radius 90s are often used for mixed solids to cause a smoother flow as to not plug the line. Although if you have many 90s in your water line you will cause a large restriction in the water flow.
The following instructions you will need a form, heat restante gloves, concete, plastic wrap, a electrical PVC 90 of the final size you want, industrial hand held heater, desired PVC water line.
My advice : take a electrical 90 that you would like to use for water, place plasticwrap around it, build a form for concrete, where each end of the 90 is touching the form boards, pour the concrete and place the 90 mid way in the concete once it's hardened remove the 90, you now have a mold for a new 90 out of PVC for water. Purchase a hand held heater at Harbor Frieght for 8 or 9 dollars and heat the PVC the full lenth needed to create the 90 or longer, while the PVC is still flexible place it into the mold and press down on the top to prevent flattening of the pipe. Once cooled you have a long radius 90 you want. It's important to not let the PVC cool and reheat it a 2nd or 3rd time, each time the PVC is reheated it looses it's flexibility and it will most likely split. So once you start heating stay dedicated!
Hope this helps now and in future projects.
Paul.
 
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