pump wont come on

If the contacts aren't closing,you either have a bad pressure switch or the nipple that the pressure switch threads into is clogged..

sammy

www.tylerwellandpump.com

It could be a bad wire nut connection or loose screw on one of the wires in the switch if the points are closed and the pump doesn't start.

OK, called in the professionals, the guy who installed everything several years ago used 15 to 20 feet pieces of pipe and then connected them together for over 110 feet instead of one large roll of pipe. These fittings were starting to rust thus causing leaks in between, causing backflow and not allowing enough pressure to make the points close. They replaced all piping and installed a new check valve , old check valve was built inside the pump, said they had never seen this. Check valve was not bad but with it built in pump they thought it best to install one above pump just in case it would ever go bad. Good news is I did not have to go outside at 5:00 am to turn water on in 12 degree weather, Yah!

Thanks to all who gave advice, hope that by posting the final solution someone else can use this info to help them. Must have been mistaken about the points closing and pump not coming on, unless at that time there was just enough pressure to try but not enough to complete the task. Oh well, thanks again to everyone.

old check valve was built inside the pump, said they had never seen this.

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I don't know where these guys are from, but having the check valve built into the pump end is the rule not the exception.

bob...

And if their threaded fittings in the drop pipe were leaking then they didn't use tape of dope and tighten them correctly 15 or so years ago. But that would not cause you to have no water, so I'm not sure your problem isn't hiding right now but, why did they pull the pump to find these loose fittings when they should hav efound out why the pump wouldn't run and that is usually something not requiring the pump to be pulled unless ther was power to the well but the pump wasn't running. I'd find a new pump guy next time.

These guys were not the original installers. Said where the pipes inside well casing was leaking was causing water to drain back from points, therefore no pressure built up to turn points on so once we used all of the water in the tank, pump wasnt coming on.

Earlier in the thread someone asked you if you had the pressure switch with the low pressure cutoff . The one with the lever you manually turn on to make the pump run . You said yes . They suggested you try another switch & you said you did & had the same problem . Was the other switch you tried like the first one with the low pressure cutoff & lever ? If you had used a regular switch the pump would have run & you would have had water even with the leaks in the fittings in the well pipe . Your pump would have cycled more than necessary so it's good you got those leaks fixed .

jrmcmil said:

These guys were not the original installers. Said where the pipes inside well casing was leaking was causing water to drain back from points, therefore no pressure built up to turn points on so once we used all of the water in the tank, pump wasnt coming on.

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Here's how it works, the pressure switch points close when the water pressure falls to the cut in setting, I.E. 30/50 switch settings, the 30 psi. When the points close the pump comes on, now these guys say the joints in the drop pipe were leaking, that means that the pump keeps running and can not build up enough pressure (50 psi) to open the points and shut the pump off but... if it did shut off, the pressure tank allows the water to go back down the well through the leaking fittings and the pressure falls and the points of the switch close and the pump comes on and the process repeats.

Now you said you didn't have any water because the points didn't close. Leaking fittings don't cause that, they cause the points to close unless you have a check valve at the pressure tank.