How much does a wax ring compress?

In a separate post you indicated that you had approx 1/8 inch clearance between the flange top and the underside of the toilet when it's down. This is fine.

Stick your wax ring on and set your toilet.

The toilet may still rock a little if your tile, or the toilet is not exactly flat. Use shims, but not wood ones. Personally, I've made little slips of copper from flattened copper tubing for shims. I bend a lip on one side so that the shim can not dissappear completely under the toilet.

shim_it.jpg

Plastic door shims are best.
 
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Toilet Installed!

OK. OK. I agree, I can get pretty anal sometimes when I am trying to find out how to do something. Comes from my computer analyst background. I always get as many opinions as I can and then try to figure out which opinion I should go with.

I return the Toto Gwyneth toilet that did not set flat. Got a new one and it was perfect on the bottom. I installed it yesterday and everything went well. The first flush did result in a gush of water shooting out over the side of the bowl that hit the wall and ran on the floor. But after that it behaved a little better. Went through a couple of wax rings because the horn on the bottom of the toilet was bigger than the inside of the wax ring. The first one split before it was seated all the way. Had to ship about 1/16" +_ on one corner where my tile was a little low.

Appears to work good now. No water leaks and nothing coming out from under the toilet. Although that would probably take some time to occurr if it were going to happen.

The only small problem I had was setting the tank level and getting it tightened. I made sure the tank was setting level in relation to the three tabs on the top of the toilet. I then went back and forth between the two tank screws and tightened the tank. I still have about a 1/16" gap on the left front tab, but the tank screw was getting pretty tight and I was afraid I would break it. I will let the gasket settle a little and then try to tighten it a little more.

The wife is happy now. So all is well!


Thanks again for everyones help!
Ron
 
If a bowl needs shimming, we do it at the back, making sure the front of the bowl is pinned to the floor. My favorite shims are found in the door department, they are about six inches long with a very gradual taper, made of reprocessed plastics. Very easy to "score" and snap.

With tile, I like using clear PolySeamSeal. It looks much better than trying to match colors.

A rotohammer works nice for putting in 1/4" holes in the concrete to secure the flange.
 
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