a few questions changing Sewage pump

Hi, everyone!

I am new to this forum, and really excited to discover this great forum!

I am going to change my basement sewage pump this weekend, and would like to have some expert opinions on the following questions:

1. The flotec pump instruction says to install check valve horizontally, not vertically, citing the possibility that solids sitting on the valve. The diagram the user's manual shows that the check valve and shut-off gate sit right on top of the sewage basin cover. My concern is, that installation (as described) will make it difficult to change the sewage pump in the future, since there is no easy way to life up the sewage basin cover! For that consideration, I would rather install check valve vertically. What do you think?

2. Is a "Union" needed below the check valve if I use the rubber sleeve check valve? My understanding is, the only reason to have a union below check valve is to make it easy to disamble pipe and replace check valve and/or pump. Well, since I use rubber sleeve check valve, it is already easy to install/remove, so do I still need a Union for any reason?

3. My current sewage basin cover has about 1/2 inch layer of some type of clay/soil on it for sealing purpose. The material looks like normal soil, but it is light weighted, yellowish, can be hand grinded into fine power (thus will not clog pump if getting inside). I think it is a special type of clay sealant with some chemical in it, so that when it dries, it expands to fill all the cracks. Does anyone know what material that is?

I really appreciate any of your inputs on any of the questions! Please...

I've never installed a check valve horizontally on a sewage pump, nor have I installed a union but I will say use of a union makes easier work of the job during replacement IF the union will come apart. I always drill a 3/16" hole within 6" of the outlet port of pump to prevent air lock. Same goes for sump pumps as well.

Thanks for your reply

Thanks for your reply!

Here is what I end up with:
1) I installed check valve vertically. I found justification on both ways, even different sewage pump mfgrs have diff instructions (either vertically or horizontally). My opinion is that it is the water pressure, not the semi-solid, that could make the valve difficult to open. The water pressure will be the same regardless check valve installed vertically or horizontally.

2) No union needed if install the rubber sleeve check valve. It itself can act as a union - just untie the lower (or top) rubber sleeve, you can easily remove the check valve. I had PVC check valve before, but the rubber one is way better (cheaper, much quieter, more flexible).

3) Found nothing like the "clay sealant", maybe just the dirt that the builder failed to clean up...

Good Deal Sounds like you got the job done.