Please HELP! I dropped the old pipe down the well!

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Hugh

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Attempting to remove the old 1 1/4" inside pipe and packer ejector from my 2" well casing, I inadvertantly dropped the whole thing to the bottom of the well.:eek: Is there ay tool to remove the inner pipe so I can install the new 1" pipe and packer ejector for my new pump? Perhaps something I can drop down inside the 1 1/4" inner pipe, expand it and withdraw the old inner pipe? PLEASE HELP:confused:
 
If you can see it, you may can drop a cable with a loop over it. If you can't see it, it will be very hard to fish out. I have some spears and grabs made for that kind of thing but, they are all hand made and very heavy. You can also use an offset wedge dropped inside the pipe with a cable. It is just hard to get it inside the pipe, especially if you can't see it.
 
There are fishing tools on my PUmp Hoist all the time, but they are used with the Hoist. I wouldn't recommend using them by hand. If you lost them, you would be out a lot more money than the old two inch well.

Why are you changing the pump and jet/droppipe?

Did the pump come on when you weren't using water? Did the pressure just keep getting worse? Did the pump get to where it wouldn't shut off? If you answer these questions, I might be able to save you a lot of grief and money.

bob...
 
old pump motor died. existing inner pipe is 1.25". New pump/packer adapter accepts 1" diameter inner pipe and new ejector. even if I could use the old ejector, any coupling would completely fill the 2" well casing.
 
Where can I get one of these 'fishing tools' you speak of? I am very capable of designing my own, but to sent drawings to a machine shop for a one-time fabrication would not be cost effective. I have searched the web with no luck. To be sure there must be SOMEONE out there who sells prefabricated devices for this purpose, and can I get a reccommendation of any that yyou've had good experience with?

my app:
I have no idea how deep the well is
I cannot see the inner pipe...it now rests at the bottom of the well
inner pipe is 1.25"
casing is 2"
top of inner pipe has male NPT threads on it
do you need further details?

Thank you very much, everyone, for your replies
 
yes the 1.25" couplings will barely fit inside the 2" casing, but severely restrict the flow of water between the inner pipe and casing, rendering the ejector at the bottom practically useless.
 
Not that it matters, but if the 2" pipe is clean, that area around the coupling is sufficient to supply the nozzle with all the water needs. Or you can just use 1". But the other pipe has to come out first.

bob...
 
pipe

In the old days, well men used a tapered drive shaft from a Model A, (I think that was the car), with a rope tied to it. They dropped it down the casing and it went over the pipe like a funnel and jammed it. Then they pulled it out. How far down is it. An electrician "Chinese finger trap" wire puller might work if you can keep it open and get it over the pipe, then keep it in place while you put tension on it to make it compress against the pipe.
 
I thought I had a picture of a pair that I have. Can't find it. I could take another one. I will tell you that the last time I bought a pair of 2" jars, they cost me over $300.00 dollars and the taper tap that goes on the end to screw into the pipe was about $175.00. Do you think it's worth this much to fix the well? If so, I have a pair I'll sell you.

bob..
 
Taper Tap

You might make yourself a 1 1/4 tapertap out of a pipe thread die by welding a tapered nose cone on it to guide it into the coupling your trying to hook. You need to run it down on solid pipe so you can rotate it. Need a hoist unless not far down. You might get it in without modification to the cutting end, only rig up a way to hook to pipe, since it's pretty tight down there. Once it hits you just rotate until it feels like you got something. You can buy a tapertap from SEMCO Pump Hoist Company in Lamar Colorado for around $100, but they are made to screw into 2 inch pipe coupling. Too big for your use. They might have something smaller. Google their website for a number and give them a call.
 
toolfool

How about a yard long piece of threaded rod, with a toggle-bolt wing (or several) threaded on near the top. You would choose toggle wings that would jam the id of the lost pipe, but not in the casing. Nuts and a suitable fender:cool:washer threaded near bottom would assure the thing would center up over the lost pipe end without going down the side of it. Make it good and heavy with lead bling or whatever so it can be jiggered with emphasis.
 
Is there a coupling left on the pipe that is stuck in the hole or just the male end? Either way you should be able to thread a coupling or a male end into the pipe and pull it out. Get yourself a long tape and measure where the pipe is at in the hole,get some pipe or use the one you pulled out and see if you can thread back on to it. The same thing happened to me 2 months ago and i was able to thread back on the pipe and pull it out. You need thin wall turn couplings.

Good Luck,

Sammy
 
What Sammy said would be your best first attempt. If you didn't jimmy up the threads, you should be able to re thread the pipe with the opposite gender. The turned or thin wall couplings are not necessary for jet operation. When they got hard to come by many years ago, we just used standard couplings and they work just as good as the turned couplings.

If you do go down to get this pipe, the jars are very important. Without them, you might lose your fishing pipe also.

bob...
 
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