Toto Aquia dual flush toilet product review, comments and posts.

The rough-in is measured from the wall, not the baseboard.

At 12", the Aquia would have about 1/4" from the tank to the wall.
If you have 12" to the molding, then add for the molding too.

Great, thanks for the information. I am ordering mine today.

Now, just one more thing. I was initially concerned about the Aquia being an unlined tank. I am in Southern Ontario and it gets rather humid here in the summer. I have read elsewhere that tank sweating isn't a huge problem with "modern" water saving toilets as they don't completely empty the tank. Thus the fresh cold water is mixed with some remaining room temp water preventing, or at least significantly reducing, any sweating issues. Any one have any comment on this aspect of the Aquia specifically?

Thanks again.

The Aquia uses just some of the water in the tank. I don't think it will sweat. Terry

Water Drips

Hello. I just installed a new Aquia for my powder room. The flush valve does not shut off completely and water keep dripping out of the tank to the bowl evan after the tank is filled. As water keep dripping from tank to bowl and thus the flush valve keep dripping to refill the tank. This turns into a water wasting cycle. I checked and made sure the bolt from tank to bowl installed correctly as there no water leakage on the exterior of the toilet. I cleaned out the flushvalve and the flushing mechanism as instructed in the instruction manual. However, it did NOT solve the problem.

Is the flush valve and/or the flushing mechanism main cause of this problem? If so, can someone advise on how to adjust them?

Thanks in advance.

Installed ours today, went "slow and steady" and so far all is well. Have been a "lurker" for the past couple weeks, thanks to all posters for the good advice!

Great website Terry!

DQH98 - sounds like a flushing valve issue, but am certainly not an expert, hope your supplier can help. Our's drips for about 5-15 seconds after using it.

Neat toilet, very impressed with the amount of flushing action given the small amount of water used. Kids enjoy using it, they actually bypass the other toilets in the house in order to use the toilet "with the buttons".

Well we have had ours in place for 6+ weeks and I have yet to pick up a plunger! AWESOME. This in a house of 5, where someone would clog the toilet at least once a day, no exaggeration.

Almost all issues (#1 & #2) are taken care of with the "small" flush. Yes there is the occasional streak, but I would say less than with our old toilet. Most of which gets taken care of when the toilet gets flushed and the bowl fills substantially with a forceful torrent of water. The water spot is perfectly placed to catch most of what goes in. A "normal" toilet looks ridiculously wasteful and/or clogged when you get used to looking at such a tiny water spot as in this toilet.

The install is a little more involved than a regular toilet, especially if you have tile floors, but nothing a half competent DIY'er can't handle.

There is a slight whoosh/thump on flush but minor when the lid of the tank is on etc. I certainly isn't waking the whole house up if you flush at 2:00 a.m.

First thing we noticed after this toilet was in is the lack of "outhouse" smell in the bathroom. Three boys in this house and it seems when they miss it would drip down through the bolt holes for the toilet seat and then onto the ceramic surrounding the flange. It would always smell no matter how often this got wiped up. This has been totally eliminated with this toilet. I presume because of the excellent rubber seal between the seat and bowl.

Looks fantastic, easy to clean, inside and out, saves huge amounts of water, overall a 10 out of 10. We ordered a second one for our basement bathroom two days after we put this one in. We will also be using one in a third floor masterbath once the addition gets built.

Toto Aquia DF Installation Complete

Hi,
I just finished inmstalling a Toto Aquia Dual Flush Toilet. Many thanks to this forum and it's users for sharing their insights on the toilet and it's installation. I have only every installed one toilet before so I was very anxious about getting this done right.
Once I removed the old toilet I had quite a job removing the old silicone. I had to restain the hardwood underneath where the old toilet was as the new one has a different foot print. I marked the holes with the template and predilled with the 11/64th bit. I installed the PVC trap and screwed it to the floor. I took the advice of another member and used 1/4" x 2 1/2" Lag Screws to secure the mounting blocks to the floor.
I installed the bowl all the way to the wall which I realized after that I should have left a 1/4" gap. Once the tanks was connected it was touching the wall so I had to go back a few steps to try and pull it back off of the wall. Once the bowl and tank were secure we added the water and we only had a slow drip at angle stop. Once that was tightened up we seemed to be good to go. We adjusted the water level on in the tanks and adjusted the half flush too.
Everything seemed to be going great until I sat on it wobbled.
I tried adjusting the base screws with no success. At this point do I just shim it was a coin or two or do I need to take the whole thing apart and start over?
Will the silicone seal help stabalize the toilet too? Should I shim and seal it?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I will post some photos too.
Thanks a lot for this great forum and site Terry!
Installation instructions for Aquia

Pennies, dimes, or nickels...cheaper and more readily available than running out to buy shims...

Neil J. Creger photo

We use the composite shims from HD.
We buy them by the case.
They have a thin taper to them, snap off easily and wear well.
Installation instructions for Aquia

Install just finished...

First, I'd like to thank Terry and all of you for your comments and recommendations - they helped me not make any mistakes while installing the toilet. Things I learned this time 'round:

1) The composite shims are located in the windows and door section of Lowes. The plumbing gents will look at you like you are asking for a left footed screw driver.
2) Use a paper towel plug to keep the sewage gas out of the house. If you forget to pull it out before installing the rough in, one flush and it moves along, unlike the plastic bag I used several toilet installs ago.
3) If you are installing on a tile floor, the blue granite bits by Bosch work wonders.
4) The white screw anchors are a joke. Even if you drill 5/16" holes. I knocked mine in as far as they would go and then cut off the tops with a hacksaw blade. (It helps to rub a bar of soap on the screw threads to lubricate them and make it easier to thread in, TL)
5) If the location of one of your holes is near the edge of the tile on your floor, the tile will very likely crack when installing the screws. Not sure how to get around this unless you drill a bigger hole in the tile.
6) Duct insulation or a bit of hot water heater blanket wrapped around the plastic rough in quiets things up a fair bit.
7) I didn't have leakage from the tank bolts, I had leakage from the filler tube. Props to Terry for letting us in on the sand the tank trick - it worked great.

All in all, only a little more time consuming than installing the American Standard that lives in the downstairs basement. Wife hates that toilet because of all the grooves and crevasses it has.

Toto Aquia

Just had Toto Aquia installed by plumber yesterday. One question so far: flushing by pushing either button does not empty the bowl. Is this normal?
The water rapidly wooshes down, but stops at about the level of water that was in the bowl to begin with. When I remove the tank cover and flush with the larger button, the water in the reservoir goes down, but not all the way.
We have the Toto Carlysle in another bathroom, and it empties the bowl when we flush. Haven't tried #2 yet, but note with #1 some residual foam on top of water in the bowl after flushing. Would appreciate any comments from others with experience with this toilet.

If you Carlyle empties the tank, you don't have the right flapper valve in it! Nearly all gravity flush low-flush toilets do not empty the tank - they use the water height to add pressure and a large flapper valve to create a large volume, but cut it off quickly. With a properly designed bowl, that short, intense dump of water pushes the waste past the trap and empties the toilet. The better ones wash the bowl in the process, but that is somewhat a factor with the original water spot.

If the Aquia doesn't flush waste properly, you may have a drain problem.

Difference Between Aquia I, II, and III?

Does anyone know the difference between the three models (CST414M, CST416M, and CST464MF)? I don't want to buy one of the old ones only to find out that the new ones fix many of the old complaints. Thanks!

Below picture of the new Aquia II bowl.

Installation instructions for Aquia

Does anyone have an opinion about which is a better toilet - the Toto Aquia or the Caroma Caravell?

Caroma vs. Tota Aquia II

I'm glad I found this website!

Our water company is giving a rebate on low-flow toilets and after exhaustive research we decided on the Aquia II. However, instead of a 12" rough-in, my plumber says that the rough in in the master bath is 11 5/8" !
He wanted to know if this toilet might have "wiggle room".
My house was built around 1950 and it's old ceramic tile. I called Toto in Georgia and Customer Service (who was very nice!) said that we could give it a try and see. On the other hand, the Caroma installation seems to have a (shall I call it?) flexible rough in so that it WOULD have wiggle room?
Any experience out there?
Suggestions? Comments?
I am in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Someone elsewhere said that at 12", there is 1/4" of gap behind the Aquia. At 1/8", you can probably make it fit, but it'll be really close. You might put a square up between the wall and floor - if you're lucky, the floor/wall junction is slightly over 90-degrees, and you'd have room.

Or just move the closet bolts to 11-3/4" and make it work, Terry

Click to expand...

This didn't seem to answer my question. It's that I don't have enough space between the first bolt and the wall. We are going to try a "dry fit" tomorrow and I'll pay the plumber for his time if it doesn't go. The plumbing supply place will take back the Aquia and we'll probably get the Caroma even though the bowl sticks out too far and not enough room to the tub. Sigh!

make it work

reposition the mounting flange, reposition the bolts, change flange to offset, ??

TOTO Aquia I

Toto LA, So. Cal, told me in the future that the Aquia 1 may be discontinued, and only carry II and III, cleaner design, quieter, easier install. I and II same price, # III shipping in 5-6 weeks, Also # III skirt may hit wall water valve...

I just picked up 9 of the Aquia III yesterday.
And I have plenty of the Aquia II in stock.
I have the Aquia I stocked in the Beige and the Bone.

Another Aquia II, Aquia III confusion question.

I am interested in buying the Aquia II or Aquia III next week. I do not need Universal height of Aquia III.
Before buying, I would like to know how Aquia II or Aquia III flushing performance and skid mark creating compares to Drake or Ultramax.

I also would like to know how the Aquia II or Aquia III is installed. , it seems that Aquia II or III do not have the plastic trap like the Aquia. But Aquia II and III do have an "outlet flange". Does the outlet flange need to be screwed in to the floor?

I am presuming that Aquia II and III are installed differently from Aquia. Could not find Aquia III or III install instructions on Toto's site.

Thanks, Terry, for this great forum.