well problem

sandra m

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Help we have a dug well with a submerged pump that was replaced 3 years ago. We have always had low pressure and run out of water if we're not careful. The last few days when water is running the pressure switch has been going down to 40 then clicking and jumping up to 60 (thats where it always stops) and back to 40 and so on. It does this very fast. When I got home today theres no water no nothing. usually when we run out I hold the lever on the switch to make the connection, the pressure will go to 20 then continue to rise by itself. Its not moving. I don't have a clue who to call. Any ideas?
 
If the pump cycles too much it will ruin the motor. This often happens after the bladder in the pressure tank fails. It's also possible that your pressure switch has failed. If you know someone that has a good understanding of electricity they should be able to test these things. If you don't know anyone, call the people that installed the well pump.
 
thanx we tested tonight . I was told it's probably the pump sooo your advise sounds right. Yikes more money
 
The fact that the pump can deliver 60 psi suggests to me that is is probably NOT the pump.

Here is something you can try even if the tank has a failed bladder.

1. Turn off the circuit breaker so the pump won't run.
2. Open a drain valve near the tank. You may want to run a hose outside.
3. At the air valve in the top of the tank (if it's a bladder tank) that looks like a valve stem on a tire (it may be under a plastic cap that you must pop off), add air until the pressure is about 35 to 38 psi (based on your description that the switch starts the pump at 40 psi). You may need an air compressor. It is possible but a lot of work with a manual pump.
4. Close the drain valve.
5. Turn on the circuit breaker and lift the lever on the switch as you described in your original post.

The pump should start and the pressure gauge should almost immediately rise to the same as the pressure of the air that you added to the tank.

Then is should rise normally (not "jump") to the shutoff pressure of 60 psi. Measure the time in seconds from pump start to shutoff and write it down for future analysis of problems.

If it works as I have described, but the air pressure when tested again with no water in the tank drops to zero within a day, then you have a leak in the tank on the air side of the bladder. You will also see evidence of this if the time to pump from start to shutoff gets much shorter than when you measure it as described above.

If it works as described, but the air pressure when tested again with no water in the tank drops over a few days, then the bladder has probably failed.
 
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