Brass/ABS connection

Swapping out a soaking tub for a whirlpool tub. The new tub has a brass drain while the existing is ABS.

What do I need to do to connect the 2?

The drains on bath tubs are standard 1 1/2" tubular. I like brass more. I'm sure if you put the two pipes side by side you will see they are the same size.

What do I need to do to connect the 2?

Click to expand...

If you are asking how to connect the new tub then you would hook it back into the trap just like your old tub was. if the new tub drain doesn't line up I would take a picture and post it so we can tell you what you need to do.

Thanks Pat.

My question was to the hookup. Not sure about alignment issues, but I'm not worried about it at this point.

My concern is that the new drain is brass while the house drain is ABS, including fully glued trap fabricated from ABS.

I'm thinking I need to cut the ABS and glue on a male thread. Then the new tub drain slips inside the existing ABS and I tighten it all down with some sort of gasket in between. Much like a sink trap, only vertical???

Is that how it's done??

The tub drain and overflow combine into one 1 1/2" tubular pipe...
This is connected to the 1 1/2" ABS piping using a "waste and vent connector" which is a threaded fitting that glues onto the ABS pipe and uses a nut and nylon (usually) washer to make the water-tight connection...
the ABS pipe then goes into the trap and then to the waste piping...

In short, Yes - much like a sink connection...

Thanks Mark.

Hope y'all don't mind if I keep all my project ???s on one thread.

Next issue is a smelly trap

Tore out acrylic shower pan and I am replacing with mud pan. However, the trap (2" ABS) for the shower was smelly at times. Not sure if the trap was fabricated improperly or not. I'd like to remedy this now while my bathroom is all tore up.

Anything I should look for as a tell-tale sign that the trap is bogus???

Would pictures with a tape measure held up as reference help??

Waltman said:

Anything I should look for as a tell-tale sign that the trap is bogus???

Would pictures with a tape measure held up as reference help??

Click to expand...

Pics always help...

drain

The longer the drop pipe is to the trap, the more pipe that can become fouled and create an odor. You cannot reduce the length of the pipe without creating a new set of problems unless you also revise the rest of the drain.

OK, here are some pics...the tape meas is included as a reference.

Of particular concern, however, are these nasty looking black maggot-looking things lurking within. see pic...

They're about 1/4" - 5/16" in length and about 1/16" thick...they are squirming all around in that drainpipe...

Anyone have any idea what they are, where they come from and how to kill and prevent?????

OK..google is my friend.

Seems like I have drain flies (larvae). Since the drain is currently plugged with cloth, I'm not too worried. This would stand to reason as all the drains in the room have been unused for about a month now.

Will bleach do the trick, or should I use something stronger...like some leftover pool shock??? I'm talking full irradication here folks. I figure the chlorine will kill the bacteria living in the drain. The bacteria is the food source. Am I going a little too commando?? Will this fry my ABS drain???

A couple caps full of chlorine should do it...
Any more would be overkill...

You might also want to use a bottle brush to clean up the insides of the pipe. and flush it out.

If you haven't checked it out, go to www.johnbridge.com to review things on how to build a shower correctly.

Personally, I really like the Kerdi system from www.schluter.com. It just makes sense to have a waterproof layer right under the tile all over the shower...it dries out much quicker and is pretty bulletproof. Conventional construction works, too, but there are lots of ways to do it wrong!

OOPSY - typo

System referred to in above is http://www.schluter.com/

No worries...I'm a BIG Schluter fan!!!

Already researched it over ar John Bridge's site. Going KERDI on the shower walls and DITRA for the underlayment...

I'm Waltman over there too...

BTW - Those drain fly maggots are gone...about 1 cup of bleach did the trick!!! Thanks Guys!!

***update***

OK, it's been awhile so I'll give an update and ask my question(s)...

Tear out is done.
Plumbing & electrical done.
New tub drain
old plumbing supplies/drains capped
2 recessed lights
1 bath fan
30 amp dedicated electric supply to whirlpool
Rough-in inspections passed.

Now, plumbing for the new whirlpool tub (which required 'flipping' the tub, grrrrr) necessitated pulling up a 7'x3' section of my 5/8" T&G subfloor. When replacing this section, I think I inadvertantly put the new section in 'upside-down' meaning that the ink marks on this section of plywood are showing.

I will be going over the entire floor with 1/2" ply laid (overlay) perpendicular to the subfloor...screwed 4" on edge and 6" in the field...

Here's my concern: The new section of subfloor is about 1/16" lower than the existing. Will this cause my 1/2" overlay to pull up in that area? This area is UNDER the tub (will be mortared in) and UNDER the new shower pan (which will also be mortar). Should I consider feathering-in some floor leveler at the joints?

Will this be a problem for me down the road, or do I have nothing to worry about here???

Thanks!
Walt