Gas black pipe

Rockycmt

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I need to add to my gas black pipe supply for a new dryer. I am upgrading and switching from electric to gas since I have the service.

Here is what I know:
I already have 2 capped tees I can tap into the main.
The runs are straight and simple. (Prob just 2 90deg bends)
I know the threaded pipe needs to be doped up and tested for leaks with soap.
I know to have a cut off valve at my destination for service.
I know to use a flex pipe to my dryer.
Obviously turn off the main when doing this all.

Is there any advice for my new branch?
How long does the pipe dope need to set?
What is the min size of pipe I should use?
etc
 
one of the bigger dangers is having natural gas and oxygen in a pipe, capped or otherwise. Just be sure you don't turn on the gas until you have the whole run finished.

Also, be sure to have a drop down T right before the dryer if you're in the basement to catch debrie.
 
Some guys like to use teflon tape, some like to use both tape and dope. I have had excellent results using just dope. If you do use tape, be sure it is the yellow tape that is made specifically for gas. It is a bit thicker than the white used for water. For me, I find it easier and faster to just slather the threads with dope. It might drip, but it's easy to wipe up.
 
Some guys like to use teflon tape, some like to use both tape and dope. I have had excellent results using just dope. If you do use tape, be sure it is the yellow tape that is made specifically for gas. It is a bit thicker than the white used for water. For me, I find it easier and faster to just slather the threads with dope. It might drip, but it's easy to wipe up.

We are not allowed to use just tape in our area, so you better check on just using tape if you choose to do that. Because of cheap foriegn made black fitting with poor sand castings, it is a good idea to pressure test new gas pipe to at least 40psi before use, it will blow bad fittings and save possible trouble later. Any job that requires inspections requires a pressure test, so it is a good idea even on a small uninspected job to do one.
 
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Construct...you'll find this interesting -
Most states require a test @ 10 psi.
Mine requires 3 psi.
Reason...we have to use a low pressure guage that maxes at 7 psi ...if you were to use a gauge that went to 100 psi for example....you would never see a small change in pressure on the guage.
The only time I might pressurize a gas test that high is if my leak detector weren't showing bubbles, so I could listen for the hiss.
 
Construct...you'll find this interesting -
Most states require a test @ 10 psi.
Mine requires 3 psi.
Reason...we have to use a low pressure guage that maxes at 7 psi ...if you were to use a gauge that went to 100 psi for example....you would never see a small change in pressure on the guage.
The only time I might pressurize a gas test that high is if my leak detector weren't showing bubbles, so I could listen for the hiss.

We have to use a kuhlman gauge will show anything almost instantly. Some one else here said about a digital manometer that does the same and I belive it also works at higher pressure.

I did a job once and had a box of bad elbows and the corner blew out of them at about 30 to 40 psi. If I had run a 10 psi test I would have walked away without a leak, who know what might have happened later. Cheap foriegn junk, it's not just for PEX any more, be careful and buy some good test equipment.
 
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