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Thread: Drive point well question

  1. #76
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    Makes sense but it wouldn't hurt to try some 1/2 or 3/4 right down into the screen just off the bottom. It may lift more water that way.

    bob..

  2. #77
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    Yeah i would say make the J Tube out of 3/4" copper with a street 90 coming of a regular elbow on the bottom. Should fit down the hole.

    SAM

  3. #78

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    I doubt I'll be able to bend 3/4 copper tight enough to fit in the
    2" pipe. Mabey I'll try some 3/8-1/2 gas line i should be able to almost bend that back on it's self and zip it together. i think my compressor will now become the week link.

  4. #79
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    Dave,
    i would try to make that J Tube with 3/4" or 1/2" copper fittings.

    SAM

  5. #80

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    I think I've got my well fairly well developed. I no longer get fines in the water when it comes out of the casing so I'm thinking it's time to add the pump. I was unable to get a steady stream out of the well to calculate my max flow so I have a couple of questions.
    I was using a goulds 3/4 hp deep well jet pump with a packer rated at 13.1 gpm from what I understand that was way over pumping my screen. I also have a 1/2 hp Goulds J5 pump that may be better suited for my well at 9.5 GPM with a FP2-31 packer. If that still over pumps my screen, is there a way to "de-tune" the system to lower the GPM untill a balance is reached?

  6. #81
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    Dave,
    i would go with the J5. When you fill the pipes with water close the regulator on the discharge of the pump all the way.If you dont have a regulator you need to get one. You need a minimum of 30 psi back pressure on that jet assembly.You could temporarily use a ball valve off the discharge. Just make sure the ball valve is coming off a tee on the discharge of the pump so you can place a gauge on the top of the tee. In your jet assembly the nozzle should be an A017 and the venturi a AD726. The pressure should come up to like 70 psi. From there start opening the regulator until you have a decent flow of water.

    SAM

  7. #82
    Previous member sammyhydro11's Avatar
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    Actualy that FP2-31 should have the perfect size venturi and nozzle. Go with that setup.

    SAM

  8. #83
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    Just put the 3/4hp in and don't worry about fine tuning your screen. It's going to plug up someday anyway so don't worry about that. Worry about getting it working the way you want it to work.

    bob...

  9. #84

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    Speed,
    I was running a 3/4 hp before and had pump surging problems. replacing it with a 3/4 hp again will cause the same problems, won't it? Besides, wouldn't the pump last longer running without surging. Can you P.M. me a price for the FP2-31 packer?

    Dave

  10. #85
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    If the well isn't keeping up with the pump, you can just valve it down to where it keeps up.

    The 2" packer is $63.00 plus shipping.

    bob...

  11. #86
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    Dave,
    dont you already have a packer setup?? If you do then just change out the tube and nozzle in it. I'm a little lost with having to buy a whole new assembly.

    SAM

  12. #87
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    I agree with that. Sammy might have the nozzle and venturi you need. I don't have anything for a Goulds.

    bob...

  13. #88
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    Dave,
    where did you get your existing jet assembly from?? They should have the parts you need for the jet.

    SAM

  14. #89

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    I'll do that thanks. I also have local well guy coming out to give me a cost on drilling me a 4" well so I can forget about these problems.
    Thanks to all for all the great help!!!!!

  15. #90
    DIY Member ron in sc's Avatar
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    I also have local well guy coming out to give me a cost on drilling me a 4" well so I can forget about these problems
    Did you ever solve your problem? Mine is similar if not the same. I just have not been able to get deep enough yet to see how much water I really have down there.

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