Concrete Encasement???

Users who are viewing this thread

viennamicro

New Member
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Vienna, WV
I've been laboring on a clay pipe problem under my basement floor for a week now. I've tried several products but have yet to get the joint to seal at the bell.

After trying silicon calk, I'm back to plumber's epoxy putty and have the flow down to a drop every 6 seconds or so with some ocassional sewer gas problems.

Can I just seal the joint in 6-8 inches of concrete and be done with it? There is more than enough earth between the bottom of the concrete floor and the pipe to make this pour.
 

viennamicro

New Member
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Vienna, WV
Ooo

Pouring concrete just seems so much easier than lifting up that big heavy block wall to cut the clay . . .

Any takers?
 

Kordts

In the Trades
Messages
547
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
exurban Chicago
Do you want a professional plumber's opinion on how to do it right or do you want a blessing on a DIY hackjob? If you have your heart set on the hack way, why did you bother asking how to do it right?
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,602
Reaction score
1,041
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
wall

What heavy block wall do you have to lift to cut the pipe? If you are getting a leak from it, then it has to be a very poor joint, since you should not be able to build up any pressure unless, and until, the sewer is plugged up.
 

viennamicro

New Member
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Vienna, WV
The so-called "hack job" was done according to the advice of professional plumbers and city engineers. The wall to which I referred is attached to the exceptionally stubborn concrete floor that I jackhammered through to get to the line in the first place. I had been hoping to find a solution that did not require further jackhammering and cutting of one extremely hard clay (I'm not sure it wasn't laid by aliens using a substance not found in nature) pipe. Hence the whining. Mea Culpa.

More details:

- The line under the house actually has to run (really, not kidding) uphill to get to the main line under the street. On my level, it runs 3/4 of a bubble uphill.

- So far, gravity and good intentions (mostly good intentions and a pressure assist toilet) have been the main force getting that stuph where it belongs.

- The survey elevations were off when the main was laid and the street was poured some 48 years ago. My line and my neighbor's line tie into the main in the same manhole in front of the house. Mine is less than an inch from the bottom of the manhole.

- The city has to come out once a month with ther SST (Stuph Sucking Truck) to clean out the lines.

- When my neighbor flushes, I get some of it in my line. Just learned that the hard way.

- I'm so disgusted with the whole thing I think I'd just like to have a fire sale and start all over. :rolleyes:

My questions now:

- How far below (actually upstream in a bad way) from the bell do I need to cut to fit the furnco?

- What's the best way to cut the blasted line with minimal hammering?

- Any way to make this better short of re-doing my entire sanitary sewer?

- Anybody wanna buy a house with an extra hole in the basement in a really nice blue collar neighborhood?
 
Last edited:

Cass

Plumber
Messages
5,947
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Ohio
If it were me I would see if the city will spring for a sewage ejection pit. Abandon the existing line. Run a new line at a higher elevation to the main. Disconnect from the neighbors line. Have your old line caped where it connects to the neighbors.
 

Cass

Plumber
Messages
5,947
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Ohio
A grinder will cut the clay well. I use a sawsall with a plaster cutting blade and that works well. I have also use a hammer and chisel for rough cuts on the house side of the connection.

Your situation is not good and I would redo the system and be done with it.

Without a new system your only going to have ongoing problems and the clay line will eventually need replacement anyway. If there are any trees / bushes within 75', left or right of the line as it is going to the street, the likelihood of roots eventually getting in the clay line are about 95% not to mention the possibility of the line collapsing / breaking. By switching to a pump and plastic line with a proper pitch all these problems will be gone. If it is all backing up you can't even use a camera to see the condition of your line.
 
Last edited:

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,602
Reaction score
1,041
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
pipe

I am not sure if you have said why you need to cut the pipe or repair the coupling, but there is no good way to fix your system other than to reroute the pipe. If the bathroom pipe is near an outside wall, then you can divert it through the wall and then to the sewer. In that case you would use a sump pump to eject the washing machine and any floor drain water up to the sewer. A whole house ejector system has to be designed with all the bells and whistles to make sure you have constant service from it.
 

viennamicro

New Member
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Vienna, WV
Well Here Goeas Another Perfectly Good Weekend

My thanks to you all for giving me an out for my HoneyDoo list this weekend. :mad:

All in all - I really do thank you all for the advice and I'll let you know how the thing turns out.

Fair warning - If she says "Ya know..." this weekend it's gonna mean trouble. Last time she said that we started off painting the living room and wound up stripping the walls to the bare studs, rewiring the room, adding insulation, hanging a ceiling fan, hanging new dry wall, and then painting the living room. :confused:
 

viennamicro

New Member
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Vienna, WV
Serious Thanks

Can't say enough about the EXCELLENT advice getting me through this chore.

The angle grinder was the best advice I've had in a long time. Used a diamond blade and zipped right through the clay pipe in seconds. After that it was a snap.

Everything's back together and no leaks!
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks