Plumbing question for remodeling

Alas, I am back. I know, I know....OH NO, Here we go again say some of you! But not true. I am finally going to remodel and put the dishwasher over by the sink like it should where been built. I have some plumbing questions --dealing with supply lines and not drain lines.

The far right pipe is the cold supply line. The middle pipe is the hot water supply line and the far left side is dishwasher hot water supply line.


I want to do away with these supply lines coming thru the floor. I will be installing a new wood floor and do not want to cut the flooring around these pipes or cut holes in the bottom of my new sink base. I plan on putting the dishwasher supply as a new line from under the floor and not from the sink supply line.
When this house was built back in the 50's, this wall was an outside wall. A previous owner built a backroom that has a heating/AC duct back there. Plus the window above the sink lets air flow freely back between rooms.



I want to bring new supply lines thru the opening in the wall where the drain goes. The ledge of the foundation is 17" below this opening. I do not believe copper pipe will be able to be used here because of the tight space and the bends that will be needed. It was suggested to me to use non bursting dishwasher supply lines to make the S curve that would need to be made. Is there something better to use to accomplish this want???






So what suggestions do you have????

I suggest addressing that electrical issue with the garbage disposal PRONTO.

I wouldn't run a separate line to the dishwasher unless you plan on taking through the back corner of the sink that the dishwasher will be next to. That way the shutoff is easily accessible like it is supposed to be.

Hard piping is required in the walls and flexible piping must be outside the walls since they have compression ends.

I intend on installing 2 GFI circuits. One for the dishwasher and one for the garbage disposal. I was going to put both outlets below the countertop since each is supposed to have it's own circuit. Although I was thinking of placing the switch for the disposal above the counter.

dw

The drain line in the wall looks like it has been bent to make the connection. If you use GFCI's for the DW and Disposer, you might want to put them where they are very accessible since you will probably be resetting them frequently. The water supply for the DW is usually run through the side of the cabinet along with the drain and electrical wire.

Oh GOD !!! Just PLEASE do something soon !! Never post those pictures again ,,,, They offend those of us that know ,,,, things !

Don't run a seperate line to d/w. take a line off the hot side under the kitchen sink , put a good 1/4 turn valve and run your 60" stainless steel flex line from there to the dishwasher.

Cal

I plan on starting this project tomorrow afternoon. Question I have is this: is the hot water lines a closed pressurized system?? Meaning that if I shut off the in coming line to the water heater and would open a faucet, no water would come out because there is no pressure into the tank and thru the lines??
I have to disconnect the dishwasher line and remove the dishwasher first because I have to start laying the new floor on that side of the kitchen. I need to remove the valve that is in the photo and will replace it with a 1/4 turn valve as suggested.

Thanks for your help.

water

95% of the time turning off the water heater supply valve will stop water from flowing from the pipe. The other 5% of the time it doesn't work because the valve is defective or you have one of the single handle tub/shower valves that lets the cold water go into the hot water pipe.

What the????

I have to remove the sheet rock off the walls so that I can have the electrical outlets wired correctly (GFCI).

Here's what it looked like before starting:


Here's what I found:



Right side of frame:



Vent pipe side:



If you look closely, they cut almost all the way thru the studs. And they started cutting on the wrong side. Where is the weight supported??

Re: Chestnuts

I hope no one is offended by the following; That plbg looks like some repairman's idea of a plbg job. It looks like an idiot installed it and you are stuck w/the result. If this guy is a licensed plbr, he needs to go back to school.

That should have been run up the right side of the window above, and a san. tee sidearmed to the rough-in point (for a two bowl sink, 7" off center of sink to the right in this case) 18" to center of drain ell from the floor, then the vent, to roof.

Since this is shown as galv venting the sink and an 1/1/2" drain, it's an older installation. The pipe below the tee would today be 2" under the UPC.

hj said:

95% of the time turning off the water heater supply valve will stop water from flowing from the pipe. The other 5% of the time it doesn't work because the valve is defective or you have one of the single handle tub/shower valves that lets the cold water go into the hot water pipe.

Click to expand...

First day here and I have already learned something. Fascinating!

Is there any code violation on having a shut-off valve on both inlet and outlet of a water heater (I did this to isolate it in case of system repair anywheres else in the house-I would turn the gas off if closed)?

That's the first time I've ever seen lead used for a vent. Seems like a great deal of work to make that transition all for a 45 degree turn of direction. Cost as well; longer pipe and galvanized would of been cheaper.

I installed the white 2" PVC going thru the floor. It was my January 1, 2006 emergency project. They had actually used lead pipe bent into an S going from the black T to the sewer pipe. The S pipe clogged and burst at one of the bends. I took the opportunity to replace the remaining cast iron pipe with PVC.

That is when I started having problems with my dishwasher, but that was another thread. Anyways, I was able to solve the DW drain problem when I disconnected the drain hose form the pipe and found a clogged 1/2" barb connected to a 1 1/2" pipe. I was able to take out the barb and put in one with a larger opening and the drain stopped backing up.
Now with the remodel, the trap and drain pipe I ran earlier this year will have to be capped off. I will be running the new DW drain line into the garbage disposal, with a high loop of course.

Regarding the hot water pressure....if the valve hold, then shutting off the input does remove pressure from the hot supply pipes. HOWEVER, if you open a HOT tap while running cold water at the same fixture, cold crosses over and repressurizes the HOT line. Can lead to surprises. Most often happens when a sinle handle faucet is just left in the warm position.

Then I must have ended up lucky, I guess.

I found out this valve by my hot water heater is coming from the water main. It shuts of water to the whole house.



The pipe behind the valve is the hot water supply to the house. And the pipe in front of the valve is the gas supply to the water heater.
From this valve, it goes over to a "T" connector. One end goes up to the input of the hot water heater and the other end goes under the house and feeds the whole house. I shut off this valve and it stopped all cold and hot water to the house.
Guess that is the perks of a house built in 1952........