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Thread: Flange Repair Question

  1. #1

    Default Flange Repair Question

    I pulled a toilet to install a new tile floor and the flange is sort of borderline. It has one of those red outer rings that apparently was never anchored into the cement floor, since it still spins freely. The inside part of the flange is fine, but this red ring is very corroded and the bolts will probably pull out eventually (if not this time).

    Is the best way to repair this to cut out this outer ring and replace it with the same? If I do that, I'll have to cut the new ring in half to get it to fit under the lip of the inner part of the flange. Or should I leave it alone and try using a couple of those "spanner flange" repair kits?

    Do they sell that red ring where it is hinged, so you don't have to cut it in half?
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  2. #2
    One who lurks Basement_Lurker's Avatar
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    Default

    Since you have a concrete subfloor, I would just leave the existing setup as is and just try to repair it, otherwise I'm pretty sure you'd have to bust up the concrete to install a new flange. I would just position the ring to the proper place and use some tapcons to anchor it; and if the existing screw holes were trashed, I'd just drill new ones in the flange. Then, since you are installing tile and raising the floor height anyways, I would use either an oatey flange repair kit, or just a flange extension spacer ring. Both of which solves your height problem and the toilet bolt problem.

  3. #3

    Default

    I don't have a height problem because the tile is vinyl. The ring needs to be replaced soon. I was wondering if I need to cut it out and replace it with a new ring or use a spanner flange.

  4. #4
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking dont touch that ring.....

    if you want to get yourself into tons of
    trouble go ahead and cut that ring off that
    plastic flange embedded in concrete.....

    you will totally screw your self so badly if you do....


    go out and get two fernco spanner repair
    flanges..... they should be able to slide
    under the old metal flange rings you want to cut out.....

    now here is what you got to do....

    simply cut the ring on the toilet only where the
    bolt has to slide into under the metal.....

    put the bolt into the repair flange then

    wrestle the bolt and repair flange under the old
    metal where you made the small cut
    and line it up in place ...
    screw down a bolt to tighten up the whole thing..

    it will last 40 years.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------

    another approach is to take the fernco repair flange and
    cut the inner side out enough just to get the bolt
    to snap into place....

    put the bolt down into the old flange
    and then slide the fernco under the flange and
    get the bolt through and under the small spacer
    you cut out


    either way will is better than what you propose to do.



    god created all men,
    but sam colt made all men equal


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQMO1eyMRuM



  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks, Mark.

    I've used those spanner flange kits before.

    I was hoping that they made a ring that opens up so you could just cut out the old one and replace it with the same thing and then bolt the new one down.

  6. #6

    Default



    Would the Raven #BFR7900 repair flange work if you tear out the old corroded ring? If not, and this is still asking for trouble, then I didn't understand some of the recommendations:

    go out and get two fernco spanner repair
    flanges..... they should be able to slide
    under the old metal flange rings you want to cut out.....
    I have the exact same problem, pretty much identical. What I don't understand is how to slide the spanner ring under the old corroded metal ring. Its snug against the floor. If you don't cut out the other ring, how can the spanner slide underneath it?

    simply cut the ring on the toilet only where the
    bolt has to slide into under the metal.....
    Are you talking about the flange ring's holes where the 2 bolts secure it to the floor?

    I still don't know how to wrestle the fernco repair under the other metal ring if that ring is snug up against the floor, do I need to bend it up some with a screwdriver or prybar?

    screw down a bolt to tighten up the whole thing..
    Screw down a couple of tapcos into the repair flange, correct?

    -------------
    Steven

  7. #7

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    Try prying up the flange a bit and pounding the spanner in with a hammer.

  8. #8
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking did all go well????

    VERDY_BOY

    I assume you got yourself out of trobles
    with that nasty little toilet flange????
    god created all men,
    but sam colt made all men equal


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQMO1eyMRuM



  9. #9

    Default

    That was a loooong time ago, but I'm sure it went well.

  10. #10
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    That Raven Products #BFR7900 repair flange is the way to go in this siuation.

    Oatey sells the same item #42777 Moss Bay Replacement Flange.

    These 2 piece stainless steel flanges completely take the place of the rusted out flange on PVC and ABS flanges including clamping onto the pipe.


  11. #11

    Thumbs up

    I ended up using that. I pryed up the old one a bit and slid the new stainless ring underneath. Pryed both up a bit to give my self some wiggle room and dropped the bolts through the new stainless one. Drilled out the old anchor bolt holes large enough to drop a couple of Tapcons through and secured it to the floor. Worked real good. Thanks for the help!

  12. #12

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    Oops, here's a picture.
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  13. #13
    Master Plumber Redwood's Avatar
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    Default

    That doesn't look like nice new stainless...

  14. #14
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default ?

    Where is the stainless. That just looks like new bolts in the old flange. And from the looks of the tile line, they don't even appear to be in line with each other and parallel to the wall.

  15. #15

    Default

    I'm guessing the stainless is there, but it is completely hidden by the old flange. Is that right?

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