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Thread: New casings\door stops or wood filler???

  1. #1

    Default New casings\door stops or wood filler???

    Hi - I have a house were a bunch of the casings,headers and door stops have dents and dings in them. Do you think I'm better of just filling them and painting or do you think I'm making more work then there needs to be? And if filler is the answer, what do guys recommend for filling? BTW great forum

  2. #2

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    Can't make a general call on this. Case by case (so to speak

    If yr casings are painted, then minor dings can be filled with any spackle. Use a small <2" putty knife to be able to work the contour/reveals well. A new coat of paint, and yr good to go. I'd probably NOT use dwall compound. That might shrink and prob can't take new nicks/gauges as well.

    I'd definitely try to do it this way b4 considering the alternative: replacing the whole case. That's mitering/nailing/caulking. I'd only do that on the ones that are severely gauged.

    Of course, replaing the casings around windows is a good opportunity to get in there with some weatherproofing caulk...
    Last edited by prashster; 10-10-2006 at 11:36 AM.
    (important note: I'm not a pro)

  3. #3
    Engineer chassis's Avatar
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    I too have some trim damaged by the PO's dog. I have been experimenting lately with different wood fillers and the like. Here are my $0.02:

    Bondo (no glass filler) - good for this purpose. Easy to mix, apply, sand and paint.

    WoodEpox - easy to mix, apply and sand. Good stuff but expensive for what it is. They market the fact that the government uses it for historical restoration, but at the end of the day it's just a 2 part lightweight epoxy.

    Painter's putty (aka glazing compound) - good if you can't sand or don't need to sand. Not for highly visible or large repairs. Takes paint OK (couple coats). Quick and easy to apply, no sanding required.

    DO NOT use Plastic Wood. IMHO it is terrible to apply. I thinned it with acetone to get a more workable mixture, but it remains mealy and hard to work. I also have not had success in getting good adhesion to the workpiece. IMHO avoid this product at all costs.

  4. #4

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    Thanks guy, I think bondo is the way to go for now. Another question I have is, now that the doors are removed and the hardware is off for sanding puposes, what is the proper way to lay doors so they don't warp? Will it be o.k. if they lie flat on carpet and flip them every other day for a week or 2 ? Thanks Again

  5. #5

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    I don't think the doors will warp at all, unless you pile them up on an uneven floor and jump around on them. Better to stand them up side-by-side and leave them alone.

  6. #6

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    I'm surprised if you have solid core doors. If not, the plywood on both sides is not THAT likely to warp - especially if the doors are already sealed/painted/stained.

    If you're super concerned about it, lay them flat on top of 3 parallel 2x4's. Place 1 at the foot, one at the head, and one in the middle. This will keep the knob elevated and airflow even around the door.

    If yr not obsessive compulsive, though, I'd just stand the door up next to a wall. It aint gonna warp.
    (important note: I'm not a pro)

  7. #7
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    replacing the whole case. That's mitering/nailing/caulking
    ...and door-hanging, which requires mortising for the hinges and making sure the case is absolutely plumb, etc. By all means refinish the existing woodwork.

    If you're standing the doors up on a floor, slip some 1x scraps under them to keep air circulating around the bottom, especially if it's a bare concrete floor.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey
    ...and door-hanging, which requires mortising for the hinges and making sure the case is absolutely plumb, etc.
    Last I checked, the hinge mortises were in the door jambs, not the door trim.

  9. #9
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    My bad. I read "case" and thought "jamb". I'm in the final throes of replacing all the doors, jambs, and casing in the house, so I've got door-hanging on my mind.

  10. #10

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    You are forgiven mon ami.

  11. #11

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    Thanks guys, just wanna make sure it come out good ( like the pro's do it )!

  12. #12
    mechanical engineer indyjps's Avatar
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    my father has quite a few old rental houses with odd size doors. Ive rebuilt plenty of doors with dowels and water putty and or bondo, some of the doors were in place for 5 years before we could replace them permanently and stood up to rental abuse without any problems.
    just sand down to bare wood, back fill with bondo and your good to go.

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