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Thread: Kohler Rochelle K3385-EB Ballcock & Flushvalve Replacement and Repair

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member LesMan's Avatar
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    Question Kohler Rochelle K3385-EB Ballcock & Flushvalve Replacement and Repair

    I have (6) Kohler Rochelle toilets in my house... and I'm wondering if they might be the source of the groaning, moaning, vibrating noise that occasionally occurs at random times.

    I'm curious to know if there are any "NEW TECHNOLOGY OEM REPLACEMENTS" for the Ballcock assembly that is inside the tank. This one currently uses the float ball on a long rod / arm.

    I've attached a picture of the current assembly. I'm wondering where I might find either an OEM Replacement, or a newer style that might be more reliable??

    Thanks in advance,
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    Last edited by Terry; 05-16-2013 at 09:45 AM.

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member LesMan's Avatar
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    Default Or... would you suggest a REBUILD KIT??

    If such a thing exists... would it be more prudent to just rebuilt the existing unit with new gaskets, washers, seals and valves?

    Is there a KIT available?

    Thanks again.

  3. #3

    Default rebuild kit exists

    You can get it from a plumber or Kohler, it is part 30668. Don't throw away the old parts - they are actually worth something. I for one am willing to pay for the lift wire, my sister threw away the old one and the new one has too light of a gauge. Ack!
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    Last edited by Terry; 05-27-2009 at 06:29 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Kohler Toilet, K-3385EB Rochelle one-piece needs parts

    My mother has a Kohler toilet which I am looking for replacment parts for. My problem is I cannot locate this model online, and have no clue what the model number is. I have attached several pictures to help identify this model. Anyone's assistance is appreciated.
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    Last edited by Terry; 03-01-2009 at 10:09 AM.

  5. #5
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=895

    It may be this part.
    You can get it from a plumber or Kohler, it is part K-30668.



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    Last edited by Terry; 05-16-2013 at 09:38 AM.

  6. #6
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Default

    Here are some more pictures of a Rochelle
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    Last edited by Terry; 05-28-2009 at 04:03 PM.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member kslerner's Avatar
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    Default Kohler "Old Style" Rochelle Valve Shut-off Problem, K-3385-EB

    Name:  kohler_discontinued.jpg
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    I have a Kohler "Old Style" Rochelle Model #K-3385-EB (30886) which is leaking down the back of the toilet indicating that the valve is not completely shutting off. I can hear a slight trickle of water even after the ballcock is in the closed position. When I pull up on the ball by hand the water shuts off, but it won't shut off due to a rising water level in the tank, even if I bend the rod down lower. I have replaced the following parts (51251, 51420, 51250, 51288, 20504, 51291, 51435, 51444, 51230, 53154, 50159, 51350). I have completely replaced the valve parts with no success; there is still a trickle I can't get rid of. I can't understand why the valve is not shutting off. Kohler has not been helpful on this point. To replace the entire unit would cost $350.00, probablly not a good investment for a 15 year old toilet. Should I buyt a new part 51428? Can you offer any suggestions for why there is still a leak and how to fix it other than replacing the entire fixture?
    Last edited by Terry; 02-09-2011 at 01:34 PM.

  8. #8
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    This is exactly the main reason people sometimes shy away from Kohler...they 'roll their own' and often use custom designs, then because the production is low, and they change it often, aftermarket usually doesn't make parts available, either. I do like the way much of their stuff looks, but it can be a bear to keep it working. No way would I spend $350 to replace that part...I'd much rather invest that money into a new toilet that probably would work better and save water and sewer costs with each flush AND I could get repair parts for cheaply and easily. The vast majority of toilets out there use a few common parts. Unless it is a weird designer color, maybe now is the time to look into something newer. All of the newe toilets are required to use 1.6g, and that may change to 1.28g. Many work quite well with that lower flush volume.

    If you are lucky, you may be able to fit a 'convential' fill valve into your toilet, but a plumber, familiar with that, would be needed to tell. If so, then, the entire mechanism could be replace for less than $15 off-the-shelf from nearly any plumbing or big box store.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  9. #9
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Default

    Are you using OEM parts? Here is the kohler parts page for that toilet:http://www.kohlerserviceparts.kohler...00678a8b182932




    Last edited by Terry; 06-15-2011 at 02:36 PM.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member reefer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kslerner View Post
    Name:  kohler_discontinued.jpg
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    I have a Kohler "Old Style" Rochelle Model #K-3385-EB (30886) which is leaking down the back of the toilet indicating that the valve is not completely shutting off. I can hear a slight trickle of water even after the ballcock is in the closed position. When I pull up on the ball by hand the water shuts off, but it won't shut off due to a rising water level in the tank, even if I bend the rod down lower. I have replaced the following parts (51251, 51420, 51250, 51288, 20504, 51291, 51435, 51444, 51230, 53154, 50159, 51350). I have completely replaced the valve parts with no success; there is still a trickle I can't get rid of. I can't understand why the valve is not shutting off. Kohler has not been helpful on this point. To replace the entire unit would cost $350.00, probablly not a good investment for a 15 year old toilet. Should I buyt a new part 51428? Can you offer any suggestions for why there is still a leak and how to fix it other than replacing the entire fixture?
    I do NOT see part number 51419 (Seat) listed on you replaced parts list. This seat can be removed with an allen wrench (not sure of the size). If the very top of this seat is not totally smooth, the water will not shut off completely. Put your finger on it and twist it around...maybe you will feel a "burr". Even if you DON'T, I'd replace that item first. Also if the level of the water in your tank is too high the water will continue to run into the rim around bowl. See if the water level is above the "hole" in the front of your tank. There is a short hose that runs from the unit into the rim of the bowl. It is up high...at the water level...and runs frontwards towards the front of the toilet into the rim around the bowl. That's the rim with all the little holes in it...you can feel them by running your hand under the rim.
    Lastly, if part number 51428(Cap & Float Lever Assembly) is not totally clean, the "plunger" will not slide up and down easily. This could cause that problem, which say can be fixed by lifting the ball up.
    Take that part off the clean the "hole" with a stiff brush using Brasso, or some other brass cleaner. Sometimes a build-up of calcium-like crud can form there. For a brush, go to a auto parts store and buy a cheap spark plug adjuster...sometimes they come with a brush. Call Autozone and see if they have a brush like that. If the hole is clean, the o-ring will make good contact with the sides. Good luck.

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    DIY Junior Member Limuobai's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by reefer View Post
    I do NOT see part number 51419 (Seat) listed on you replaced parts list. This seat can be removed with an allen wrench (not sure of the size). If the very top of this seat is not totally smooth, the water will not shut off completely. Put your finger on it and twist it around...maybe you will feel a "burr". Even if you DON'T, I'd replace that item first. Also if the level of the water in your tank is too high the water will continue to run into the rim around bowl. See if the water level is above the "hole" in the front of your tank. There is a short hose that runs from the unit into the rim of the bowl. It is up high...at the water level...and runs frontwards towards the front of the toilet into the rim around the bowl. That's the rim with all the little holes in it...you can feel them by running your hand under the rim.
    Lastly, if part number 51428(Cap & Float Lever Assembly) is not totally clean, the "plunger" will not slide up and down easily. This could cause that problem, which say can be fixed by lifting the ball up.
    Take that part off the clean the "hole" with a stiff brush using Brasso, or some other brass cleaner. Sometimes a build-up of calcium-like crud can form there. For a brush, go to a auto parts store and buy a cheap spark plug adjuster...sometimes they come with a brush. Call Autozone and see if they have a brush like that. If the hole is clean, the o-ring will make good contact with the sides. Good luck.
    Hi, Kslerner, Did you try Reefer's suggestion? Did it work? I'm having the same problem. I bought a 10" ball cock arm to extend the total length from the original 12" (including ball) to 15". That help a lot but not completely shutting off the water. I can still hear a tiny little bit of hissing. I'd like to find a perfect solution.

  12. #12
    DIY Member grazzy's Avatar
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    Default k3385 repair

    I am still stuck with a couple of these brass units that sell for anywhere from $240 to $389. I took an impact wrench and a 1-1/16" socket to remove the check plunger which has a groove and a little gasket (part no. 20504) that seems to have failed, causing the continuous leaking whther the ballcock arm is held upward or not. There are no other parts in this side of the unit. On the side fastened with the two screws is another plunger kit that is readily available online and from Fergusons and other parts supply places. I believe most of the leaking occurs in one of these two locations or from allowing the water level to come up too high and flow thru the upper part of the toilet into the bowl. It is critical to stop the ballcock at the water line.

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member goran's Avatar
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    Default KOHLER Rochelle Toilet K 3385 EB repair & installation

    Hi,

    I have KOHLER ROCHELLE Toilet Model K3385 EB.
    It was leaking(Not an obvious leak)But water meter suggested the leak.
    So I just purchased 350$ repair kit(Part # 30668) from Kohler.
    I really feel bad now about spending so much money on an old toilet & I would really love if someone can show me how to install this kit
    Is there any link or video available?
    I really appreciate your help.
    Thanks.
    Goran

  14. #14
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    I can't help with how to install it, I've never seen one. But, if it was I, I'd return the kit and buy a new toilet for probably about the same price (or less, depending on style). If it's a weird color, maybe I'd keep it, but probably not. There are lots of toilets out there that work well where the parts are cheap. Check out some of the Toto line, would be my first choice.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  15. #15
    DIY Junior Member goran's Avatar
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    Default KOHLER ROCHELLE Toilet Model K-3385 EB Repair Kit/Installation

    Hi,

    I have KOHLER ROCHELLE Toilet Model K-3385 EB.
    It was leaking(Not an obvious leak)But water meter suggested the leak.
    So I just purchased 350$ repair kit(Part # 30668) from Kohler.
    I really feel bad now about spending so much money on an old toilet & I would really love if someone can show me how to install this kit
    Is there any link or video available?
    I really appreciate your help.
    Thanks.
    I have also posted this in Toilet Forum as I am unsure which forum installation of toilet repair kit will go to?
    Goran
    Last edited by Terry; 06-15-2011 at 02:16 PM.

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