American Standard Lifetime Whirlpool

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jlohrenz

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We just replaced our old cast iron tub with this. So far we are very impressed. It was easy to install.
Our only gripe was the drain, when hooked up to the overflow was about a 1/2" off. So we had to do some work with the overflow to get everything to line up correctly.
It runs quietly, and with a proper mortar bed, is a very sturdy whirlpool. We also installed it with their EZ-Heater option, which keeps the water at the same temp as when you first fill the tub. It worked like a charm.
 

OldPete

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I'm installing one also, the apron model... which one did you install? Also, which specific mortar did you use?

Thanks,

Pete
 

jlohrenz

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It was the apron one as well....2425 if I remember correctly.

I just used some quickcrete brick mortar.. It was in the yellow bag and was 50 lbs. I used the whole bag, and then came back latter with some 'good stuff' bick crack filler to fill in spots that the mortar didn't get to. It was a tight fit, but worked great.

Prep was what took the longest. The stringers are important. Are you putting yours into a recessed area or do you have easy access from all sides?

Let me know. We had a neat trick to get it into our recessed area and get the mortar underneath it without smearing the mortar all over the place.
 

OldPete

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I have some access from the other sides... sort of. (2x4 wall studs, without sheetrock in spots...)

The part that really has me is that once you setup the stringers (1x4 as per the documents, correct?) is that the base of the unit is pretty high off the ground. Does that sound right?? Why the heck that is I don't know, which is why I thought I'd post this.

So you're saying you got the entire "flat" bottom part of the tub on a solid "slab" of mortar? Is that right? Did you use concrete board to "build it up" or just a big heaping pile of mix?

And yes... please let me know your tricks... heck let me know them all! Everything is working out great so far I just want to keep it on track! :)

Thanks,

Pete
 

jlohrenz

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When we put the tub in place it was standing just shy of 1 1/2 inches off the floor due to the apron.
So we cut 4 8" long 1x4's and stood them on end (one on each corner of the tub) on top of the 1x4 stringers you just installed. We then put the tub in place and set it on top of those stringers with the 'stands'.
This elevated the tub about 8" from the floor.

It allowed us to throw the mud under the tub and to get it in place without smearing or messing it up trying to place the tub in afterwards.

We used one 50lb bag of mortar on our tub.

We even spread it underneath the tub base and mounded it up.

Once done, we pulled the 'stands' and mushed the base into the mortar.

We had to stand in it a bit to get it to sit down correctly.. Have your level ready so you can stop when it is level front to back, side to side, and the apron rests gently on the floor.

We let it set for about 24 hrs, and then I came back with some 'good stuff' foam filler and sprayed that in the back under the pump and in the front where the mortar didn't spread good enough.

End result is a very solid tub.

When it is all said and done, if you have a little gap between the outer lip and the stringers you laid down, I put some 'good stuff' there too to help support the lip.

The key is that the mortar base is to support all of the tub weight, not the lips.

I'd snap some pics, but we threw up the tar paper this weekend, so I can't get access to the underside very well anymore.
 

jlohrenz

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Good luck!

My wife's only complaint was that the tub wasn't a bit longer, but unfortunately our layout didn't give us any flex to get a longer tub.
 

boomer70

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American Standard Lifetime Whirlpool - Drain Assembly

We're also installing an American Standard Lifetime Whirlpool, and I have a question regarding the drain. The pop-up drain subassembly comes pre-assembled (the pop-up cover is already attached). The instructions do not indicate what type of tool to use or how to tighten this piece as you screw it into the drain pipe itself to make sure you get a good seal. Is hand tightening enough? It's hard to get good leverage to tighten the drain down real well.

Any advice anyone has is welcomed, and thanks for your help!
 

Lee Polowczuk

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I appreciate any advice you are putting up on this..

i have an AS whirlpool 2645... it's 5 1/2 feet long..

i have some work to do with the floor and wall studs before i get this far.... but this advice helps.

i am glad you like the tub... i seemed to get a good deal on mine from Home Depot...i bought the heater as well.

all pics welcomed.
 
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rberken

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What if you go "apronless"?

Also bought an American Standard LifeTime....I'm going to have to return it as I can't provide access as per install directions....furnace/water heater vent stack is in the way.

However, I'm just wondering what would be different if apron were not an issue? That is, if a person wanted to make their own "apron" out of tiled hardibacker or something? Is the mortar needed for basic structural integrity or as leveling agent? Would the unit feel flimsy without mortar?

Just wondering, as I know this is something I'll face once I find the right model for me!

Rick
 

Jadnashua

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Many tubs come as a drop in with an optional, often removeable apron. To adapt it to an alcove configuration, they often sell a flange kit. this may be an option for you...basically the same tub.

Yes, you can make your own tiled apron and even drywall works. www.schluter.com makes some magnets designed to be applied with the thinset to hold a removeable panel, or you can make the entire panel removeable.
 
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