Install a T on existing line

If you need to install a T fitting on a straight gas pipe that is connected to elbows on either end, how do you remove that straight pipe? I'm guessing that turning the pipe counterclockwise will loosen one end, but at the same time, the other end will get tighter and tighter, and probably will stop turning at one point. Is there a trick to do this?
An example of this would be at the gas meter itself, where you have a straight piece about 9" that is connected on either end to a 90° elbow.

There's no way to just unscrew that pipe. You have to disconnect each joint from a union or if no union, from the end of the line. The best way to do this is to cut the pipe where you want the tee. Then use a union with the tee to reconnect. Requires pipe cutting, threading, and measuring the pipe lengths precisely.

I assume ur talking about threaded steel/galv piping, so here's what you'd have to do:

1) cut out the straight section you need to replace

2) install nipples or threaded pipe into the straight runs of the tee to make up the total length of the cut section in the piping system

3) thread the cut ends of the piping run

4) use a union fitting to mate the existing piping to the nipple on each side of the tee


of course you can modify this to just cut the straight pipe anywhere and remove the whole section and just thread new pieces into the elbows and then mate with unions if u didn't want to thread the pieces while they were still attached to the system.

From reading your response I really think you should contact a professional.

Were you talking about my question, or their response? I didnt respond to anything, so I wasnt sure if you were talking to me or not..

Anyway, I did hire a professional to install about 50' of galvanized pipe from the gas meter, around the house and to my natural gas grill. There were about 5 elbows involved. He T'd into the meter and took it from there.
Now I am thinking about another line to a gas heater for my pool. I could T into any of his straight lines, or I could continue on from the end (the grill end), but that would be the furthest point away. I have no problem paying a professional for a good job, but this guy charged me over a grand to do that work. I would say he put in no more than 7 hours total, *including* travel time, getting the local permit, etc. When you get burned like that, you tend to want to figure things out on your own.
I figured this would require cutting into the straight line, but then I thought about the fact that the line would still have gas in it even if I closed off the main valve, and what sort of tool would be safe to do the cutting.

Amopower said:

Anyway, I did hire a professional to install about 50' of galvanized pipe from the gas meter, around the house and to my natural gas grill.

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Does code allow for galvanized pipe to be used for gas?

Amopower said:

what sort of tool would be safe to do the cutting.

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A pipe cutter if you have the space, a hack saw if you don't... turn off the gas, open up the connection at the meter, blow out the pipe with an air hose, or suck it out with your shop vac, ideally you would fill it with water before cutting.

Have your wife take out a big insurance policy on you first.

Rancher

gas line

Unless he seriously oversized his pipe, it is no where big enough for a pool heater, (unless the heater is so small that it will not do the job anyway). If he was there 7 hours, then including his travel time it was about 8, and his hourly charge could have been close to $100 per hour, so that plus parts would approximate what you paid. I assume you do not know what kind of pipe is approved for underground to the pool heater, what size to use, where to buy it, how to be certified to buy it when you find out, where to make the proper connection, how to install it, or any of the caveats you have to know while installing it. That is why you pay the plumber whatever he charges to install it.

hj said:

Unless he seriously oversized his pipe, it is no where big enough for a pool heater, (unless the heater is so small that it will not do the job anyway). If he was there 7 hours, then including his travel time it was about 8, and his hourly charge could have been close to $100 per hour, so that plus parts would approximate what you paid. I assume you do not know what kind of pipe is approved for underground to the pool heater, what size to use, where to buy it, how to be certified to buy it when you find out, where to make the proper connection, how to install it, or any of the caveats you have to know while installing it. That is why you pay the plumber whatever he charges to install it.

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AMEN!
Just a little heads up. $75 an hour is about par here. Pulling a permit is extra. Not sure your location but 75-100 dollars an hour is pretty decent. Next time you go to the doctor, look at your bill.

Well like I said, the 7 hours included the travel time, so at $75 an hour, you're talking $525 labor. The parts would not have been another 500. I know when I am paying for what I get, and I know this guy overcharged me, but I'm not here to debate that. I was just curious about how these things are done. Some tasks can be done just by someone else explaining them to you, while others require someone with certification and experience.

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