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Thread: Pot light wants 1/2 copper real estate

  1. #1

    Default Pot light wants 1/2 copper real estate

    I'm putting in pot lights into my kitchen ceiling. The house is about 22 years old.

    I cut out the 8 holes for the pot lights that I wanted.

    Of course in the middle of the 8th hole I find a 1/2" water pipe for the bathroom sink/toilet above. It seems the plumbers were able to see 22 years into the future and attempted to thwart my plans.

    Recommendations (besides moving the light)? I'm certainly no wizard solder guy to cut off and solder in a 4" hole. I'm thinking about cutting the pipe off on either side and using braided line and compression fittings. Oh yeah, there's also an air duct in there as well. I'll post a picture when I get home.

    Thanks for your input!
    Ben

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    The best of braided lines will eventually fail. I'd reroute the copper. Just how depends on the access to the ends, but if all else failed, cut out some ceiling. Drywall replacing is not too difficult.

  3. #3
    Master Plumber Dunbar Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowmanv2.0
    It seems the plumbers were able to see 22 years into the future and attempted to thwart my plans.

    I've had that happen as well as electricians knowing my next move in a bathroom rework at my home.


    The drywall removal idea will work well or any competent plumber can work in that small opening to make the changes. I have to work in a similar sized hole whenever someone breaks a 600 or 1300 to 1700 Delta series monitor valve in the wall and there is either back to back showers or just no way to access the valve.

    Very difficult, hard on the knuckles but it can be done. Make sure whoever does the soldering in a closed space has top level insurance.
    Read what the end of this sentence means.

  4. #4
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You don't want to use that type of a connection where it is essentially buried and doesn't have an access panel. Worse comes to worse, you could probably use some SharkBite fittings, and not have to solder anything. If you don't have a torch and tools, you'd probably come out about even, but then, you wouldn't have new tools. You'd want to probaby buy a tubing cutter.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5

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    Here's what it looks like!



    I can solder pretty good, but I don't have torch that can get into a space like that! I think I may just have to cut the ceiling open.

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    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking get out the chain saw

    get out the chain saw and cut a large hole in the ceiling

    then make your move on that water line....

  7. #7
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I find it easier to patch drywall when I cut stud to stud or in a ceiling, rafter to rafter. Then I screw a length of 2x2 or 2x4 onto the studs so I have a good wide surface to screw the patch to. Note I said "screws", that's because I find it much easier to power drive screws that whack nails in a somewhat confined space. I also like screws for drywall. It's not much more work to mud and tape a 16"x16" patch than a dinky one and with the cleats attached as described, it's far easier to firmly attach the patch.

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    Master Plumber Dunbar Plumbing's Avatar
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    I bet a fistful of fish that the copper line has that ductwork laying in direct contact with it.

    If so.....put something between the two. Otherwise there will be a hole in that copper pipe by galvanic reaction.
    Read what the end of this sentence means.

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member ToolsRMe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RUGGED
    I bet a fistful of fish that the copper line has that ductwork laying in direct contact with it.

    If so.....put something between the two. Otherwise there will be a hole in that copper pipe by galvanic reaction.
    Now that's really interesting!

    I had my HVAC guy put some cardboard between the copper and the ductwork because I was concerned about pipe noise. I hadn't even thought about galvanic reaction.

    So, how about copper and black pipe? An issues there?

  10. #10
    Master Plumber Dunbar Plumbing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToolsRMe
    Now that's really interesting!

    I had my HVAC guy put some cardboard between the copper and the ductwork because I was concerned about pipe noise. I hadn't even thought about galvanic reaction.

    So, how about copper and black pipe? An issues there?

    I've seen that commonly happen in my area where ductwork is in contact with copper piping and sure enough.....you'll notice that the two aren't getting along. When it finally starts a leak....it takes years for it to happen.

    Most common type of situation is water lines punched through cold air return panning and no grommets used for the water lines.

    In regards to black iron....meaning mild steel basically....no where near as bad....the metal will oxidize onto the copper but won't most times cause holes in it. Vibration of any material can slowly cause a leak in copper though.

    One thing I've noticed on older water heater installs is 3/4" MIP's installed directly into the ports of the tank.....when you take them out years later the copper male adaptor will have a crustation built up inside of it where the two metals joined together. The copper fitting will clean up and no damage to the adaptor.
    Read what the end of this sentence means.

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