Pumptrol Switch Step by Step Replacement

I am a newbie when it comes to wells and pumps. Our water pressure is not quite high enough at our 2nd floor shower using a 30/50 9013FSG2 Pumptrol pressure switch. I bought a new 40/60 Pumptrol switch, but there were no instructions at all enclosed. I am not sure as to the specific sequence to follow in replacing the switch.

In reviewing many of the postings, I didn't find any step-by-step instructions as to exactly what sequence should be followed in making the replacement. I don't want to screw up what is currently working, (with lower water pressure) by doing something stupid, like guessing how to do it.

Could some knowledgeable souls please provide step-by-step instructions on how to do it correctly? Will I have to set the large (and/or small) screw settings as well? I'm sure others like me new to this will benefit from your expertise and wisdom.

Thanks very much in advance for your help and this wonderful forum.

Alan

First thing that comes to mind is "Is your pump capable of producing 60 pounds of pressure?".

Do you know the characteristics of your pump and well?

Assuming it is okay, you need to do two things, adjust the pressure in your bladder tank to the new, higher value (in this case 38#) which is done with the pump off and a water valve opened to drain off any water under pressure, and then replace the switch (see next, though).

The new switch should not need adjustment...in fact, your old one could be adjusted to raise the pressure - it doesn't need to be replaced. With that in mind, you could save the new one as a backup if the old one dies. The larger adjustment changes both the on and off settings while maintaining the separation (i.e., 20 pounds). The smaller adjustment changes the offset between the on/off settings.

Thanks for the prompt reply, jadnashua.

I'm sure (at least so I feel) that the pump can handle 40/60 pounds because I know the builder that installed it, and he always leans towards heavy duty or over capacity "whatever" when he builds or installs anything. I don't know the specifics on it however right at this time.

In regard to your comment "your old one could be adjusted to raise the pressure - it doesn't need to be replaced. . . . ", if I were to do that, I assume that I should start with turning off power to the well pump, then draining the water from the tank (leaving on faucets in the house till no water comes out, then turn OFF the faucets), then in this case, RAISE the pressure from 28# (where it should be now with the 30/50 settings) by turning the LARGE spring nut DOWN (CW) to 38# for where I want it to start at for 40/60# regulation, and NOT touching the smaller spring nut (differential). I can use my bike hand tire pump to get the 38#.

Then, turn on the power to the pump, followed by turning on a faucet (or shower) and monitor the built in water pressure gauge which has been working correctly so far. I should see the "new" 40/60# range on it as the pump cycles on and off, right? This would make a really simple "upgrade" as opposed to swapping out the switch itself, and avoiding all wiring and plumbing issues.

If I have made any mistakes in what I think I should do, please let me know.

Thanks again in advance.

Alan

Leave a faucet open until you've adjusted the pressure in the tank, then you can close them.

Thanks for the advice Jim,

Would have turned off the H2O after the faucets ran dry, but now I won't per your recommendations.

Thanks again.

Alan