Sincraft
Member
Ok I labeled my post in order to get some search engine pickups for those looking to resolve the same troubles. I should have come here first but....I'm an idiot.
Keeping the whole idiot thing in mind, I need help.
I have a 5 x 8 bathroom with the bathtub / shower at the one end between the 5' space. On the plumbing side, there is a bedroom (newly remodeled and triple coat painted periwinkle). The plumbing side was done rather half-a$$ too. They didn't put studs in the spots where you would nail the shower / tub flanges so I am going to have to do that and rip up a bit more dryway to secure them. No big deal (except I already replaced the ceiling dryway as it was bad...wish I would have know I had to, but...crown molding going up there so again, no big deal).
The other problem, is that the drain is 16" on center from the wall. The drain tube runs RIGHT along side a recessed spot light for the kitchen. There is NO moving this. All the tubs / showers I have found are like 14.25" on center for the 'normal' ones, and then there are ones that are 15.5. I chose the 15.5 on center Sterling 71220110 (left hand drain) bath tub / shower system.
Right now I am a bit frustrated. I originally purchased another tub/shower, realized it wasn't going to work and it was very cheaply made...so I ordered this Sterling one. It will not be here for a few days at least (next week late), and I have some time to attack this project.
The problem is, I have the old one out..the drywall has been goofed and of course needs repaired after the tub goes in, but before that..I have to put additional stud, cut copper lines and reroute etc etc, and ALSO put the rough in valve for the shower/tub water.
I can't find ANYWHERE in their specifications or instructions that state anything of use. Of course it tells you where to put the rough in valve and where to put the studs. Here's what it DOESN'T have:
-The thickness of the walls. It bows out at the top and bottom so if you rough in too low (especially because mine is a single lever 6" round disk) you risk going into the curve out decorative bulge at the bottom. It also serves for the wall to get 'thicker' to allow for the flange that is a tongue and groove locking system with the tub at the bottom of the wall. Get it? Here's a link to the picture :
http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onl...m=professional&item=4253003&prod_num=71220110
NEXT: I've never done this before! The apron on this tub does NOT remove. There is NO information as to how far the drain bottom is on the tub from the floor and the location. Nor does it tell you how far up the overflow drain is. It wouldn't be exactly simple, but it wouldn't be rocket science to figure out how to reset the drain assembly to prep for the tub to go right against these spots. Then it's a matter of just fishing the drains centered with a screwdriver while you jostle the tub and then screwing them in from the tub right?
The guy I ordered this system from said I ABSOLUTELY must cut a 3'x3' access panel in the newly remodeled bedroom to get to it. UH OH! Another problem is, (dont laugh) there are two power outlets RIGHT beside the plumbing rough ins and studs. So if I do cut around that, I will be working right next to a stud that shouldnt be there to begin with and 2 electrical outlets that literally are going to be 5"'s from the overflow drain.
I need advice. I don't think I'm ever going to find the thickness of the walls. I called kohler, they told me they would have someone call me back, then 6 hours later someone called back and told me I was wrong, they have everything you need on their webpage. I asked him if he had ever done this before or installed a tub before, he said NO. Then he transfered me to tech support, that thought I was talking about the flange depth and the thickness of the material. I was trying to get him to tell me when the bulge stopped and if it was flush against the wall AND what was the thickness. I guess I might have to wait till the panels come in
Next - the drain issues. What am I going to do about this? Drop back 10 and punt or? hehe.
Thanks guys!
S
Keeping the whole idiot thing in mind, I need help.
I have a 5 x 8 bathroom with the bathtub / shower at the one end between the 5' space. On the plumbing side, there is a bedroom (newly remodeled and triple coat painted periwinkle). The plumbing side was done rather half-a$$ too. They didn't put studs in the spots where you would nail the shower / tub flanges so I am going to have to do that and rip up a bit more dryway to secure them. No big deal (except I already replaced the ceiling dryway as it was bad...wish I would have know I had to, but...crown molding going up there so again, no big deal).
The other problem, is that the drain is 16" on center from the wall. The drain tube runs RIGHT along side a recessed spot light for the kitchen. There is NO moving this. All the tubs / showers I have found are like 14.25" on center for the 'normal' ones, and then there are ones that are 15.5. I chose the 15.5 on center Sterling 71220110 (left hand drain) bath tub / shower system.
Right now I am a bit frustrated. I originally purchased another tub/shower, realized it wasn't going to work and it was very cheaply made...so I ordered this Sterling one. It will not be here for a few days at least (next week late), and I have some time to attack this project.
The problem is, I have the old one out..the drywall has been goofed and of course needs repaired after the tub goes in, but before that..I have to put additional stud, cut copper lines and reroute etc etc, and ALSO put the rough in valve for the shower/tub water.
I can't find ANYWHERE in their specifications or instructions that state anything of use. Of course it tells you where to put the rough in valve and where to put the studs. Here's what it DOESN'T have:
-The thickness of the walls. It bows out at the top and bottom so if you rough in too low (especially because mine is a single lever 6" round disk) you risk going into the curve out decorative bulge at the bottom. It also serves for the wall to get 'thicker' to allow for the flange that is a tongue and groove locking system with the tub at the bottom of the wall. Get it? Here's a link to the picture :
http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onl...m=professional&item=4253003&prod_num=71220110
NEXT: I've never done this before! The apron on this tub does NOT remove. There is NO information as to how far the drain bottom is on the tub from the floor and the location. Nor does it tell you how far up the overflow drain is. It wouldn't be exactly simple, but it wouldn't be rocket science to figure out how to reset the drain assembly to prep for the tub to go right against these spots. Then it's a matter of just fishing the drains centered with a screwdriver while you jostle the tub and then screwing them in from the tub right?
The guy I ordered this system from said I ABSOLUTELY must cut a 3'x3' access panel in the newly remodeled bedroom to get to it. UH OH! Another problem is, (dont laugh) there are two power outlets RIGHT beside the plumbing rough ins and studs. So if I do cut around that, I will be working right next to a stud that shouldnt be there to begin with and 2 electrical outlets that literally are going to be 5"'s from the overflow drain.
I need advice. I don't think I'm ever going to find the thickness of the walls. I called kohler, they told me they would have someone call me back, then 6 hours later someone called back and told me I was wrong, they have everything you need on their webpage. I asked him if he had ever done this before or installed a tub before, he said NO. Then he transfered me to tech support, that thought I was talking about the flange depth and the thickness of the material. I was trying to get him to tell me when the bulge stopped and if it was flush against the wall AND what was the thickness. I guess I might have to wait till the panels come in
Next - the drain issues. What am I going to do about this? Drop back 10 and punt or? hehe.
Thanks guys!
S
