Meter Size

I just finished replacing my galvanized water line from the meter to the house with 1" poly and some galvanized under the house with CPVC. I have a 5/8 x 3/4 meter and, based on my calculations so far, am getting about 47 PSI and 9 GPM (which seemed to be about right based on a chart I saw...correct me if the GPM looks wrong for the PSI). I would like to add on a sprinkler system but am afraid the 9 GPM might be an issue. To run any zone will likely take all 9 GPMs and anytime I try to run anything else at the same time it would be pretty weak. Am I correct in my assumptions?

I am contemplating having a larger meter installed. Thoughts on this? If I do it, should I look at 3/4" or 1"? Price difference per month is $1.55 for 3/4" and $4.90 per month for 1".

Thanks,

Brian

You're right, you don't have enough input capacity to run a sprinkler system. Maybe one sprinkler on a hose, but not a system. The 1" will get the job done. Realize that you will not increase the pressure, just the volume. When you install the system, set the controller to operate in the wee hours of the morning when there is the least amount of use on the water main and because that will save some water by reducing evaporation compared to watering in the heat of the day.

Don't forget that you must install a backflow prevention device when you have a cross connection. The way I did mine isn't the only way it can be done, but it sure works. The 1" copper supply line comes onto my property about 4 feet from the meter 5 feet underground. At that point, I have a tee. The side going to the irrigation system has a stop and waste valve that is turned with a key permanently attached to it and going to the surface through a piece of 6" PVC. The water line is elbowed up and goes into the backflow preventer. It then comes out of the BP and is elbowed back down a couple of feet. The line then crosses the yard to the side of the house when the valve box is located. The controller on the basement wall just opposite where the valves are. The BP is set below the surface of the ground in a control box, and I remove it in the fall just as an extra precaution against freezing. My city requires cross connections to be inspected and certified annually ($25) As I said, this sure isn't "THE WAY" it has to be done down the the last elbow, but I think you can get a idea of how it can work in your situtation. BTW, this is my second BP in the 22 years, so they do last and are repairable if they fail.

Thanks for the words of advice.

My plan is to tee off of the service line where it enters under the crawlspace. I plan on taking 1" PVC out the side of the house (and under a sidewalk) and do 1 valve box for anti-siphon valves. I plan on doing just one box because I don't want to have a bunch of anti-siphon valves sticking up in my yard at various places. This way, I can build 1 box above ground and house everything in there. From there I will serve all my zones with 3/4" PVC. I would prefer anti-siphon valves. For one thing, from my interpretation, it does not require the annual inspection. I think I'll check with the City about the 1" meter.

Brian