Shallow well problem

I had to replace my shallow well pump. It was a craftsman 1/2 hp 20/40. I replaced it with a craftsman 3/4 hp 40/60 pump. My problem is if you turn a hose on full blast the water surges. I also keep getting spurting in the sinks in the house. What I'm wondering about is the down pipe. I replaced it too along with the pump. The problem is that the casing in the ground is only 2" the down pipe I had to use for the pump is 1 1/4" I had to grind the lines off of the foot valve and couplings to get it to go into the pipe. At the time I installed it the we had been going through a little bit of a drought here in Fl. my water level was at 14' and I made the down pipe 20'. Since then we have had plenty of rain but the pump still does the same thing. I'm just wondering if the casing is to small for the pump and the pump is sucking the casing dry and that's why its surging. It's like the pump is sucking the casing dry then it fills up and thwe pump then suck it dry again over and over. If this is so should I replace the casing with a bigger one that sounds like alot of work or could I just drive a 11/4" drive point next to the casing an use it. Thanks for any help anyone may have on this.

Maybe Suction Restriction?

Shallow well jet pumps are very sensitive to pressure drop on the suction side.

If the aquifer is above the foot valve, then there may be a problem getting water past the couplings and foot valve that are so close you had to grind them down.

So would I be better off putting in a drive point and using it instead. And is it ok to use a drive point for house water.

If you bought your tank at sears, it is probably why the pump is cycling on and off. It is probably waterlogged.

You may or may not be able to drive a point into the ground and get water. The underground geology is different everywhere you go.

What kind and brand of tank do you have?

bob...

Its a Flotec 82 gal equivalant tank it has 35psi in it the pump turn on is 37psi.

To clearify the pump is not turning on and off the pump works fine it turns on at 37 and off at 60. Its just while its running with a hose at full blast the water comes out of the hose full force for like 15 to 20 secs. the stops for a couple of seconds the flows fine again and the pump just sounds like it getting water then for a few seconds it sounds like it not getting water.

Also since I live in Fla. were our soil is sandy that's why I was wondering if I could just put in a drivepoint next to the casing and use it instead of the 2" casing.

If it only quits for 2 seconds then runs for 20 seconds, I don't think it's pulling the water level down. But if you think that is the problem, put 30 feet of pipe in instead of 20. They it won't/can't pull down anymore. Twenty feet is too short and 30 feet is perfect for a shallow well hookup. The pump can only pull 25 feet vertically.

The Flotec and the Sears tank are the same thing.

bob...