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Thread: Dishwasher Rough In

  1. #1
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Default Dishwasher Rough In

    Howdy

    What do I need to do for a dishwasher rough in? I'm thinking nothing more than wiring at this point, but I'm not sure. It's to be located next to the sink. Currently in the remodel process. Old sink and nearby counter is propped up on 2x4's and cabinets are gone.

    Would wiring (dedicated 20A circuit) come in about 6in from the floor, and then I can bring supply and waste from next door cabinet once cabinets are in? I'd tap into the hot water line under the sink and then run the dw waste looped up and into the disposer.

    Thanks,
    Jason

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    DW are supposed to be on their own dedicated electrical circuit. If you do not use an air gap, then the drain line needs to be looped under the counter and attached so that it can kink. To be able to pull the DW out and put it back in the space, I use steel braided flex hose. In my case, I tapped the water line in the basement, put in a cut off valve, then came through the floor in the back with the flex line. The water could come from the sink cabinet just as well.
    Last edited by Terry; 07-05-2006 at 10:50 AM.

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    Retired plumber speedball1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lakee911
    Howdy

    What do I need to do for a dishwasher rough in? I'm thinking nothing more than wiring at this point, but I'm not sure. It's to be located next to the sink. Currently in the remodel process. Old sink and nearby counter is propped up on 2x4's and cabinets are gone.

    Would wiring (dedicated 20A circuit) come in about 6in from the floor, and then I can bring supply and waste from next door cabinet once cabinets are in? I'd tap into the hot water line under the sink and then run the dw waste looped up and into the disposer.

    Thanks,
    Jason
    Hi Jason,

    If we were going in and add a dish washer we first change out the hot water 1/4" angle stop for a double 1/4 by 3/8ths by 1/2 compression angle stop.
    We can then pipe over to the dish washer in let with 3/8" copper. If you don't want the hassle of installing a air gap, such as shown in the above post then do what we do.
    When we install a dishwasher we ALWAYS loop the hose that connects the dishwasher to the disposal inlet up as high as we can loop it and then secure it with a pipe strap. This is called a "drip loop". If this is not done the dirty water and garbage will drain back down into the dishwasher every time you run water in the disposal side of the sink. Check and see if you have the discharge hose looped up so it doesn't drain back. Hope this helps and good luck. Tom
    Last edited by speedball1; 07-09-2006 at 07:30 AM.
    speedball1 is a veteran expert from AskMe.com.

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    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Default power to a new dishwasher??

    the plumbing is not too big a thing for a dishwasher
    like the other fellows have already stated....

    the most important thing is the POWER line to the DW

    Its almost better to run a separate line from the breaker box
    with a dedicated breaker to them....becasue they draw quite a bit


    do not scab onto old power lines that already are overloaded with appliances
    or you might notice the wires in the basement getting WARM when the
    DW runs....

    call an electrician and ask them what size wire and breaker should be used.
    Last edited by master plumber mark; 07-09-2006 at 01:53 PM.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Local code requirements have changed in recent years. Used to be the DW was hard wired out of the wall. Nowadays, it is more common to require the DW to be PLUGGED in to an outlet on a dedicated circuit. The reason for the plug-in requirement is that installation and service personnel were tempted to work "live" since no one ever seems to know which breaker controls what! Check with your local folks to see if the plug can be behind the DW, or if it must be in an adjacent cabinet.


    As far as the rough, go to any mfg. website, geappliances.com for example. You can get rough in specs for any model. If you stay with conventional brands and models, they will be mostly all the same. If you are looking at a bosch or some other exotic, get the rough-in specs before you start construction.

  6. #6
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips. I have it on a dedicated circuit. 20Amp. My whole house was on like 8 circuits and I added like 6 more for my kitchen remodel. Ha. I hope it doesn't require being plugged in because I just left a couple feet of wiring hanging out near the floor for it to be hardwired. Can cut and splice in a J-box I suppose, or put a recepticle in a handybox stashed underneith.

    The girlfriend has picked out a Kenmore model, I'll get the details and check that.

    That double 1/4 by 3/8ths by 1/2 compression angle stop is one valve with two out-flow ports? Is that better than spending an extra buck and tee'ing off the supply line and having a seperate shut off?

    Thanks,
    Jason

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    I've got about 5 shutoffs under my sink: hot/cold to faucet, DW, frig, filter at sink. It's nice to be able to shut each of them off individually. Not required, just nice.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member harleysilo's Avatar
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    Is the dishwaster water supply suppossed to be hot water?

    Would it make sense for the hot water supply line to by sink/dishwasher to be 3/4 copper, where as the cold water is only 1/2 copper?

    I am redoing the copper supply lines, and tonight/ tomorrow is the time to change if need be. They are both 3/4 copper in the basement so I could run 3/4 to both, or go down to 1/2 for both, whatever needs to be done is what I'll do.

  9. #9
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Hot 1/2" to the 1/4 turn DW supply stop and then use a braded stainless steel connector to go from the stop to the DW. All stops should be under the kitchen sink for ease during service.

  10. #10
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Check the clearance behind the new dishwasher before planning on a plug-in. My new Kenmore barely had room for the flexible conduit right-angle connector coming out of the box. I'd think about placing the receptacle under the sink.

    If you do decide to go with a plugin, a real easy way to wire such (the Kenmore doesn't come with a plug) is to buy a short extension cord, cut off the female end, and use that for your cord and plug. Gives you a nice molded plug, and they can be had with a right-angle plug as well.

  11. #11
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey
    Check the clearance behind the new dishwasher before planning on a plug-in. My new Kenmore barely had room for the flexible conduit right-angle connector coming out of the box. I'd think about placing the receptacle under the sink.

    If you do decide to go with a plugin, a real easy way to wire such (the Kenmore doesn't come with a plug) is to buy a short extension cord, cut off the female end, and use that for your cord and plug. Gives you a nice molded plug, and they can be had with a right-angle plug as well.
    Plugin? Boo.... I think I'll be able to hardwire it.

    Thanks,
    Jason

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