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Thread: Tips for snap cutters...

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member coach606's Avatar
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    Default Tips for snap cutters...

    Other than properly supporting pipes that are above, any tips for cutting C.I. vertical waste stack with snap cutters? I have already built a soffit around the pipe and will use steel riser clamps above and below the cut.

    Any tips for measuring or cutting if I'm going to use a 3 x 3 x 3" PVC wye and two banded couplings?

    Here's a quick sketch of my plan. Sorry if the drawing is messy. I'm a terrible sketch artist. The pipe is going 45 degrees for a bit to clear our laundry chute. Once clear, it'll turn up 45 degrees and then take a long sweep 90 degree turn or a turn with two 45's and a straight pipe to a horizontal waste pipe sloped at 1/4" per foot. Then it's heading up the wall to the attic.

    Thanks.

    I included a second sketch with a Wye fitting and a cleanout. It's a good spot for one.
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    Last edited by coach606; 07-03-2006 at 08:12 AM.

  2. #2
    Master Plumber master plumber mark's Avatar
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    Talking more is better

    its better to cut out far more than you really

    need to ..... give yourself PLENTY of room to navigate

    youir fittings into place or you will live to regret it......


    an extra 18 inches of PVC pipe in that stack is not going to matter


    but trying to cut another 3 inches off after you have

    already tied into it can be a fun time......

  3. #3
    Plumbing Contractor Bud1300's Avatar
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    Default

    Cut more than you need and you can install the fitting with no-hub bans and pvc to no-hub adapt.

  4. #4

    Default tips for snap cutters

    Yo Coach! Ditto on the 3"pvc wye,give your self some flex w/the pvc pipe,your going to run 3"pvc up to the attic any-way.

  5. #5
    DIY Senior Member coach606's Avatar
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    Default Thanks...

    Great tips... I'll let you know how it goes.

    My project has stalled a bit as we've run into some more zoning hassles. It's pretty amazing what you can go through just to do a little work on your own house! I'm not even building out, just trying to change a dormer already there so my stairs can meet code. Soon as I clear that hurdle I get hit with another one regarding height clearance above bathroom fixtures, a problem that exists because zoning prevented me from building a dormer there in the first place! Now it's another five weeks and a second zoning variance! Hopefully, in the end they'll let me build.

    Anyway, I have time off right now so I'd really like to tie into the stack and run the dwv and supply up to the attic. Then I'd have to wait until we get the electric done, clear zoning again, and get the second dormer built to really start roughing in the bathroom.

    I may run the supplies up to the attic and then wait. But is it okay to tap the stack, make my horizontal run and the run it up a floor and cap it in preparation for when the upstairs is ready to rough in? I figure I can just cap it off and no sewer gasses would get in. Then again, the pipe would be in my daughter's room, who is just about two years old.

    Is capping the line okay or should I just wait until I can send the pipe through the roof? If I can tie into the stack and run the pipe up to the second floor, then I can begin building some soffits and feel like I'll have a good chunk of work done before I head back to my day job and have limited time and energy for plumbing.

    Any opinions? Is capping it safe or do you not feel safe until it's through the roof?

  6. #6

    Default tips for snap cutters

    Yes,capping or plugging the drain until your ready to move on with your project is adequate.

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default pipes

    Whatever you do ahead of time be sure to leave it accessible because the inspector will want to see it once you get the permit.

  8. #8
    DIY Senior Member coach606's Avatar
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    Default will do...

    I'll leave it accessible. Thanks for the advice. I'm ready to go.

  9. #9
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bud1300
    Cut more than you need and you can install the fitting with no-hub bans and pvc to no-hub adapt.

    Do you need this PVC to no-hub adapter?. This doohickey (technical term) was installed in my CI stack where they replaced with PVC before I bought the house. The no-hub side seems to be the same diameter as the PVC. Is it necessary?

    (By the fact that they used the said doohickey, makes me think a pro did it, but they also didn't support the upper section of pipe and it pulled loose 'upstream' Posted previously about that...)

    Jason

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