Kohler Rialto K-3402 toilet fill valve repair

**vinayg** · 03-04-2009, 03:16 PM

Hi All,

I was trying to find a cheap replacement for the fill valve repair kit.

I found

this for $37 shipped

and

one from plumbing$upply for $53 (84499-WF).

Anybody knows which would be OK or anything else which is better?

I know my cap is broken. Can I get away with just getting the Cap/Plunger kit and the Plunger repair kit, instead of the whole assembly? I don't see anything else that can be broken in that assembly. The real question is, will those repair kits fit on top of the original tube? My original valve looks exactly as shown in the picture by hj. There is no lower float.

Thanks in advance for any help.

**SocialD** · 03-05-2009, 08:17 AM

I had a Rialto that would not stop running in the five years I've owned my house. I've spent $100 on the replacement parts to stop the problem once. I've also spent money for a plumber to fix the problem. I've replaced the flapper at least twice. I've tightened and loosened the screws which worked for about a week each time. All of these were temporary fixes. About four months ago it started getting progressively worse. Finally, after a $130 water bill I replaced it with a Toto Drake this weekend. I wish I would have done that in the beginning and saved myself the headaches and the money I threw down the drain trying to fix the thing.

**vinayg** · 03-06-2009, 02:38 PM

I got the Coast ballcock 1B1X from Lowes B&M for $9 and it seems to be working fine. It is made by PlumbPak, model number PP830-13L, Item# 246711, UPC 046224024309.

There is a very very faint hissing sound, which I can hear only with the cover off and my ear close to the tank. It stops if I just touch the float rod. Any ideas on how to stop that?

**pwjone1** · 04-26-2009, 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by vinayg

I got the Coast ballcock 1B1X from Lowes B&M for $9 and it seems to be working fine. It is made by PlumbPak, model number PP830-13L, Item# 246711, UPC 046224024309.

There is a very very faint hissing sound, which I can hear only with the cover off and my ear close to the tank. It stops if I just touch the float rod. Any ideas on how to stop that?

Sounds like the plunger isn't quite shutting off.

Some basic 101:

1. Check that the overflow tube is not "overflowing"
(should fill to the line, but no further, if it's overflowing, it will keep
running, but this seems a bit unlikely, usually not quiet when it does
this)

2. Check that the flapper is seating fully
(although this usually manifests as cycling, leaking into bowl.
food color test (drops in tank, if they show up in bowl, you have
leak)

3. Turn off water, off cap (3 screws), see that plunger is free, seated
correctly. Usually if that's a problem, you will see water leak out
or spay out of the top.

Past this point, gets trickier. If you have already solved the problem, post the solution here, and if not, then we'll have another go at it.

**pwjone1** · 04-26-2009, 08:51 PM

I also have three old Kohler Rialto K-3402s. Not the best toilet made, tends to clog, but they were in the house when we bought it, and all are designer colors, matching the bathtubs, sinks, etc., so I'm inclined to keep fixing/rebuilding them, for now. (Note to self, always buy white). Don't live in an area with water supply problems, so at least I don't feel too guilty.

I did rebuild one about 5 years ago, that's been fine since, used the standard Kohler rebuild kit, wasn't easy to find, last rebuild kit at the plumbing supply or I would have bought more, but it worked, redid everything in the toilet. Now another Rialto is acting up, problem similar to some of the ones above, redid the plunger/fill valve recently, thought that would be it, but now it's cycling very slowly. Over an hour so so, loses enough water that the tank refills. Don't really hear much of anything, other than the valve is running very, very quietly, but not immediately. Tried two more Flappers, I think the seal with the flush valve is just not very good, but if I push down on them, seems to be OK for a while, but eventually cycles again. I for the life of me cannot figure out why redoing the fill valve plunger would have any impact on the flush valve/flapper side of things. Seat looks clean.

Any suggestions?

**pwjone1** · 04-26-2009, 09:01 PM

The Coast 1B1X float valves were OK, in their day, but I'm kind of wondering if any of the more recent design fill valves can work in a Kohler Rialto K-3402 (pre-1998):

* Fluidmaster
* FillPro
* Korky

Here's the toilet specifics:

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/114396_8.pdf

The Float Ball is actually a fairly tight fit near the Flush Valve assembly, I worry a bit if the flapper is going to clear, and if the Ball is going to hit the side of the tank, etc. I noticed that Kohler in the evolution of the Rialto has used some non-ball designs, one looks like a Fluidmaster. And I seem to remember Fluidmaster at one time making a 1-piece tank replacement (doesn't seem to be obvious if they still have that).

But the part I cannot figure out, if I were to use one of the newer/cheaper fill/float valves, is how to do the diverter for the rim that Kohler has. This is a 2ndary float and valve type arrangement, big plastic tube, that comes out of the Coast 1B1X just under the top.

Thoughts?

**pwjone1** · 04-26-2009, 09:09 PM

Originally Posted by weaver

Two of the K3402 (1983, 1985) were in the house when I bought it. Both fill valves sprayed at the top (and through the holes in the back of the tank). I bought a Kohler repair kit (about $90). It sprayed from the top. I have replaced the Kohler fill valves with Fluidmaster #400A and the expensive Kohler flappers with Korky. I run plastic tubing through a rubber stopper inserted into larger tubing inserted for the rim wash. Works fine.

I have a Korky #528 fill valve in a Case kidney side handle (1926) that also works well and I would think it might serve as well as or better than the Fluidmaster #400A in the Kohler 3402.

It has occurred to me that it is possible that occasional high pressure (110psi) from hot water heating contributed to the Kohler fill valve spray. I don't have an expansion tank (yet).

Thanks for sharing your sleuth work with the techs. Interesting.

I have Kohler on a list with Moen.

Bob

I am thinking (see another append) about doing something similar. I have a few questions:

1. Where did you get the stopper with a hole in it? (Test Tube stopper or ?)

2. How did you adjust the amount of water running through it to the rim?

3. Any siphoning or other problems to worry about? Tube routing high?

Thanks.

**Redwood** · 04-26-2009, 09:39 PM

Originally Posted by pwjone1

The Coast 1B1X float valves were OK, in their day, but I'm kind of wondering if any of the more recent design fill valves can work in a Kohler Rialto K-3402 (pre-1998):

* Fluidmaster
* FillPro
* Korky

Here's the toilet specifics:

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/114396_8.pdf

The Float Ball is actually a fairly tight fit near the Flush Valve assembly, I worry a bit if the flapper is going to clear, and if the Ball is going to hit the side of the tank, etc. I noticed that Kohler in the evolution of the Rialto has used some non-ball designs, one looks like a Fluidmaster. And I seem to remember Fluidmaster at one time making a 1-piece tank replacement (doesn't seem to be obvious if they still have that).

But the part I cannot figure out, if I were to use one of the newer/cheaper fill/float valves, is how to do the diverter for the rim that Kohler has. This is a 2ndary float and valve type arrangement, big plastic tube, that comes out of the Coast 1B1X just under the top.

Thoughts?

No the hole for the fill valve is right in the corner of the tank there is not enough clearance for any of those fill valves.

**pwjone1** · 04-27-2009, 03:51 AM

Originally Posted by Redwood

No the hole for the fill valve is right in the corner of the tank there is not enough clearance for any of those fill valves.

Thanks for the pointer, I'll certainly have to check the clearance on the units. However, it kind of looks like there's at least one append in this thread that says at least the Fluidmaster would work, earlier by Bob Weaver:

Originally Posted by weaver

Two of the K3402 (1983, 1985) were in the house when I bought it. Both fill valves sprayed at the top (and through the holes in the back of the tank). I bought a Kohler repair kit (about $90). It sprayed from the top. I have replaced the Kohler fill valves with Fluidmaster #400A and the expensive Kohler flappers with Korky. I run plastic tubing through a rubber stopper inserted into larger tubing inserted for the rim wash. Works fine.

I have a Korky #528 fill valve in a Case kidney side handle (1926) that also works well and I would think it might serve as well as or better than the Fluidmaster #400A in the Kohler 3402.

It has occurred to me that it is possible that occasional high pressure (110psi) from hot water heating contributed to the Kohler fill valve spray. I don't have an expansion tank (yet).

Thanks for sharing your sleuth work with the techs. Interesting.

I have Kohler on a list with Moen.

Bob

Now, I'll grant you, I'm not sure what to make entirely of the 110psi hot water hook up, etc., but it does at least seem to indicate the Fluidmaster 400A and the Korky 528 (which is the standard Lavelle part, not the Toto variant, which is frankly tempting to try out in a one piece toilet (if it fits

)). Granted, Lavelle looks like it comes out somewhat high, have to do some measurements, there, see if it clears the lid. The FillPro doesn't look like it would have clearance problems, thing is tiny.

I'll have to poke around, see if I can find somewhere that gives measurement/clearances on the units. Eyeballing the rim feed tube (a kind of big plastic piece on the Kohler 3402s), it does appear to be above water level, with the tank full (although the point where it leaves the assembly on the Coast fill-valve ends up under water), so if I worked the smaller tubes on these units into that opening, it would seem likely to work. Granted, not clear the water amount would be the same. That had been my primary concern, but I guess there are others.

Thanks for the guidance. Some things to think about.

**RubenRZ3** · 07-28-2009, 03:34 PM

I bought a 3402 @ a habitat for humanity store. I had wanted one for a while but didn't want to spend so much. I found this gem for 25 dollars. But the filler valve was leaking I thought I was going to buy the whole kit for 118 locally. But you all helped me find the PlumPak and now it's not leaking and working great. And it only cost me 14 bucks to fix. So 39 bucks for a black Kohler in my book sounds like a deal and a half! Thx you all so much for the help!!!

Ruben

**hnlulu** · 08-13-2009, 03:57 PM

Is their any way i can fix these toilets,they sweat and also leak from the supply line entry.Is their something new i can replace the original thanks joe

**Gary Swart** · 08-13-2009, 04:14 PM

Are these low flow toilets or old 3 gallon per flushers? The reason they sweat is the water coming into the tank after a flush is cold. If your toilets are the antiquated 3 gallon models, you have 2 factors working against you. First, the old toilets dump the entire tank into the flush so 3 gallons of fresh cold water is required to refill the tank. New low flow toilets do not use all of the water in the tank so the incoming water is mixed with water already at room temperature. This alone reduces or eliminates sweating, but add to that that the volume of new water is only 1.6 gallons and sweating should not happen. If your toilet is an old one, replace it with a Toto Drake and live happily ever after. As far as the leaking supply line, what can I say? If it is leaking through a fitting, tighten it up. If the line is leaking, replace it. If the stop valve is leaking, tighten the packing nut. If this is beyond your abilities, hire a plumber.

**dcrosamond** · 09-13-2009, 03:16 PM

I just replaced the ball cock flush assembly with new parts from Ace Hardware. It no longer part number 1B1X but is now part number 04-4165. State replacement for one piece toilets.

Comes with the tubing and the bar for the ball. Good to go and only $24.39 before tax.

Diane

**netnexxus** · 09-20-2009, 06:09 PM

I have 4 Rialto 3402's and had constant problems with original Kohler plastic valves, I replaced them with the Coast copper /w plastic sleeve valves but these also started to leak after about 3 years and I could no longer find replacements or parts at my local supply house. About 4 years ago I got tired of the cost and hassle of having to repair/replace the valves on a regular basis and had decided to replace the toilets when I heard about a small company who was starting to market solid brass replacement valves for the 3402. The valves were perfect replacements and significantly better than the originals.

I recently experienced a very strange problem with the valves starting to leak a few hours after shutting off. I called the company and after trying a few of their suggestions, they replaced the valves. Working with this company is an incredibly satisfying experience. They make an excellent product and stand behind it. A very rare trait nowadays.

I wanted to recommend them to anyone looking to replace/repair the Rialto 3402 valves. Good luck

http://www.cescobrass.com/Model16ak.cfm

**tgeorge1** · 09-26-2009, 11:24 AM

New to this board and probably haven't followed proper procedures for new post (sorry) but have a comment and question: After flushing, water level in bowl remains low. How do I raise the level of water in the bowl (pre-flush)?
tg