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Thread: Kohler Rialto K-3402 toilet fill valve repair

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member koehler's Avatar
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    Default Kohler Rialto K-3402 toilet fill valve repair

    Hi All,

    I found the forum doing some research on my cranky Kohler 3402PB. Couple of questions if you don't mind.

    I can't seem to find much reference to the 3402PB model, only the 3402. Is it normally just referred to as the 3402, or do I have some other variant?

    I am rather shocked to find that Kohler is almost entirely unavailable as an aftermarket parts pruchase. It would appear that the rubber plunger inside the fill valve has deteriorated, and is causing a faint but perceptible continuous fill noise. Is it possible to find this plunger by itself, or am I really stuck paying $80-90 for a whole new assembly.

    If not, I'm seriously considering taking a shot at replacing the entire toilet with a new one. Appears to be rather straightforward as a one piece unit. For someone only moderately mechanically inclined, any tips.

    Thanks, great site too!

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Thanks,


    I don't know if this helps, S. McMillan wrote me the other day:

    "Our Kohler Rialto (~12 yrs old K3402) started running about 2 years ago but could be stopped (until about 5 months ago) by tightening the top center screw of the ballcock to push down the plunger to stop the water flow. I saw online that Kohler no longer made the ballcock (refill valve) and I would have to buy a new toilet. A local plumbing supply house had them but they cost ~$98!!! Further online research has finally shown that this Kohler ballcock valve is Model 1B1-X made by Coast Foundries for Kohler. The top cap on ours says "Kohler Co. 1B1-X Sheath Ballcock". I found new 1B1-X ballcocks (~$24)and rebuild kits ($3.69) online at Ace hardware and DoItBest hardware stores. The new 1B1-X ballcocks don't have the lower flush float valve that feeds the rim flush so I purchased the rebuild kit at a local DoItBest hardware store (part number 450758 O/M 1-25) and repaired our old one in about 10 minutes. (Wouldn't it be nice if Kohler told us that a couple of years ago instead of telling us we needed to buy a new toilet)." S. McMillan

    More information on the K-3402
    Last edited by Terry; 02-03-2009 at 12:19 PM.

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member koehler's Avatar
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    Terry,

    Thanks very much. I did already replace the cap, found as above at Ace. I will try reinstalling and cranking down on the top screw. If that doesn't work, I'll try to find the kits and do a rebuild.

    Thanks again.

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Rialto's are a pain; but I just put in a complete new Coast 1B1X and find that is works satisfactorily.

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    DIY Junior Member koehler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo
    Rialto's are a pain; but I just put in a complete new Coast 1B1X and find that is works satisfactorily.
    Thanks, I may do that this week if the refit/tighten does not work.

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    DIY Junior Member Jetta's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry
    The new 1B1-X ballcocks don't have the lower flush float valve that feeds the rim flush so I purchased the rebuild kit at a local DoItBest hardware store (part number 450758 O/M 1-25) and repaired our old one in about 10 minutes.

    I've been struggling with another cranky Rialto style K-3397 and thinking a replacement of the 1B1X would be the next step. And I don't feel like spending $97.50 on a Kohler rebuild kit. I think I need to replace the flap as well.

    Will I need to find the rebuild kit with the lower flush float valve for the K-3397 as well?

    Any help on the 3397 is appreciated. Many thanks.
    Last edited by Terry; 11-24-2005 at 01:32 PM.

  7. #7

    Default I have 4 of the exact same Toilets

    I am trying to sell them, any one know what they are worth. I have also heard them refered to as continuous flush toilets. Whats the deal with them?

  8. #8
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default toilets

    Their worth ranges from whatever you can get for them, to whatever you have to pay to have someone take them away. But why would you want to. That toilet will not overflow if it gets plugged up, (and they do not make any new ones with that feature), which makes it ideal for a second floor bathroom. A new flapper and a 1B-1X fill valve makes them as good as new. The 1B-1X does not need the lower float. It uses a diversion valve to send a portion of the flow to the rim to assist with the flush. You cut the original plastic rim hose off and insert the smaller one from the 1B-1X into it.
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    Last edited by Terry; 12-04-2008 at 03:16 PM.

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    DIY Member rldev's Avatar
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    Does anyone know the ACE model number for the top cap?

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    DIY Junior Member deanalt's Avatar
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    Default Problems with fill valve

    Sorry to piggyback on this thread but it looks like a similar post and I need the photo of the fill valve in there.

    Kindly help. I am almost at wit's end!

    It's now been almost 2 weeks (a blown angle stop, soaking bathroom carpet and padding, 3 plumbers visits, etc) and I cannot recall exactly the problem with my toilet. For one thing, the old fill valve was spraying random jets of water out its side, getting too close to the mysterious four holes in the back of the toilet tank (which Kohler says were probably for hanging the toilets on the assembly line but just could be for some sort of vacuum/veniliation, so maybe I shouldn't block them!). I also think it had a slow leak, possibly due to a very worn flapper. The plumber took one look at the old valve and immediately decided to replace it with a PF140999 one piece ballcock by PROFLO (also replaced the flapper, which was very worn). This valve looks exactly like the photo HJ posted in this thread. Becasue I have a second such toilet upstairs with the original valve, I can see that this replacement valve is missing a swivel thingee on the side of the valve. Also, the outlet that connects to the front of the tank (for rim wash, I think) is positioned about 1.5 inches higher than on the original valve, therefore causing that line to be barely uphill whereas on the original, it is quite a bit more of an incline. Also, on the old toilet, it looks like the outlet on the fill valve for the rim feed fits right into the toilet tank's 6" curved, run of very hard plastic that runs all the way to the front of the tank; whereas with the new valve, it looks like this plumber may have cut out most of the hard plastic run and instead inserted about 6 inches of flex clear plastic hose that came with the new valve, inserting one end over the valve outlet and the other end into the only one inch of the hard plastic run. The difference being that water can conceivably leak into the hard plastic at a much higher height in the badly performing toilet than it can on the old unit (on the old unit, it can enter right at the low height of the outlet of the fill valve, but then has a much steeper uphill run).

    The reason I mention all this is that, with this new fill valve (1 B1-X, which says it fits 7 brands of 1 piece toilets), I cannot get the fill valve to shut off 100%. There is always some hissing and, sometimes, almost randomly, 15 minutes later the quiet hissing slowly builds up and turns noisy (almost like the sound of a siphon pressure building up as it reaches full volume). At this point, I notice that the tank water level has dropped about 1/4 inch, where it stays, until I flush again. I notice that bubbles of water also can then be seen going through that clear tube feeding the rim of the bowl. And drops of water fall from the flex clear hose just where it enters the hard plastic run sometimes. It seems that some sort of odd siphoning action is happening here.

    It is driving me nuts. So any of these clues above suggest why this is happening? The plumber, after 3 visits, has written it off as finicky and has lost interest, particularly in waiting for 15 minutes each time he adjusts to see if the noise goes away (he, apaprently, correctly tells me Kohler is still looking for a new supplier for what will apparently be a conversion kit, possibly becasue they know this system stinks and they expect it to cost over $100 when they finally find a manufacturer).

    Manually lifting the rod always eliminates any noise so I assume that somehow or another, if the water level is dropping, the valve cannot cause the water level in the tank to refill high enough to shutoff the valve - the water must be leaking off into the bowl, or down the drain, I assume. The doughnut below the FLUSH valve may have a tiny, tiny slow leak. I have turned every screw, bent the lever arm, and nothing seems to work for more than 2 or 3 flushes in a row.

    Thanks so much.
    Dean

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member deanalt's Avatar
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    Default Fun never stops

    With some further research, I find that my ProFlo after market fill valve is a private label for Ferguson Plumbing, coordinated by a firm called Lincoln Products. They tell me the 1 B1-X, despite the label Ferguson insists upon, is actually misssing a secondary float that is on the original Kohler valve and, indeed, I now see that is true. Apparently, that secondary float assembly and output for the rim wash will mount to the 1 B1-X in place of the current elbow and output (for rim wash) and that my plumber should have known to take the old secondary float and put it there. He apparently trashed it and dind't notice the difference in the new valve. In the plumber's defesne, the Ferguson packaging says nothing to indcate an additionaly piece is required for certain Kohler toilets. TheLincoln products guy says that Kohler does not allow anyone esle to make that secondary float and so it is not available and that the fill valve won't work without it. Kohler tech support says I don't really need the secondary float and, in fact, they often tell customers to get rid of it! They suggest that the plastic pipe going from the back of the tank to the bowl is not really a sealed entry and so it is necessary to make sure the water level is below where that pipe meets the china. It seems that the louder back siphoning noise is more of a problem when I set the tank water level lower, so I will try that.

    They are suggesting that my new flapper (which is of the bulbous shape, not flat on the bottom, just needs to be worn in and, until then, the water may be escaping at exactly the rate the fill valve wants to pump it in, which is why the fill valve won't totally quiet down. She thinks it eventually will (use a small amount of vaseline, a plumbers trick) and that is my only real problem.

    Well not quite: This supposedly very senior member of Kohler tech support also swears to me that the 1 B1-X fill valve should not let any water out between the very top cap and the second cap just below it (both come off when you unscrew the three screws), even though the latter has many circular holes in it. She says that is evidence of the after market part failing, even though it is brand new (and even though my other same toilet's valve lets some water out these openings and works fine). I have already unscrewed the top off twice to check for any sediment and the seating of washers and am reluctant to overtighten it, which could be the source of the water coming out near the top, assuming it's not supposed to. Can anyone address whether fresh water is supposed to come out the space between this top cap and the plastic disc right below it?

    Thanks again for any answers!
    Dean

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by koehler View Post
    Hi All,


    I can't seem to find much reference to the 3402PB model, only the 3402. Is it normally just referred to as the 3402, or do I have some other variant?

    I am rather shocked to find that Kohler is almost entirely unavailable as an aftermarket parts pruchase.!

    the "PB" is the reference to trim color, meaning polished brass handle.

    I'm shocked, Ric, shocked!

  13. #13
    DIY Junior Member hnlulu's Avatar
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    Default kohler K3402 pb rialto

    Is their any way i can fix these toilets,they sweat and also leak from the supply line entry.Is their something new i can replace the original thanks joe

  14. #14
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    Are these low flow toilets or old 3 gallon per flushers? The reason they sweat is the water coming into the tank after a flush is cold. If your toilets are the antiquated 3 gallon models, you have 2 factors working against you. First, the old toilets dump the entire tank into the flush so 3 gallons of fresh cold water is required to refill the tank. New low flow toilets do not use all of the water in the tank so the incoming water is mixed with water already at room temperature. This alone reduces or eliminates sweating, but add to that that the volume of new water is only 1.6 gallons and sweating should not happen. If your toilet is an old one, replace it with a Toto Drake and live happily ever after. As far as the leaking supply line, what can I say? If it is leaking through a fitting, tighten it up. If the line is leaking, replace it. If the stop valve is leaking, tighten the packing nut. If this is beyond your abilities, hire a plumber.

  15. #15
    DIY Junior Member dcrosamond's Avatar
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    Default New Part Number for Kohler 3402

    I just replaced the ball cock flush assembly with new parts from Ace Hardware. It no longer part number 1B1X but is now part number 04-4165. State replacement for one piece toilets.

    Comes with the tubing and the bar for the ball. Good to go and only $24.39 before tax.

    Diane

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