cutting vertical cast iron stack...

[coach606]

Just planning here. I will eventually run a 3" drain line to a vertical cast iron stack in the basement. The basement stack has cast iron plumbing above it for a bathroom and the goes through the roof. This plumbing is well supported, but I plan on providing more support before cutting the stack.

After making sure there is tons of support for any pipes above, I'm going to build a soffit around the C.I. stack and attach riser clamps to it above an below the cut.

I'll then cut a section of pipe out using snap cutters. My plan is to use a no hub wye fitting 3 x 3 x 3 and fit it into a street 45 to head vertical and pick up the dwv. Or is it better to just use a 3 x 3 x 3 pvc fitting with two no hub adapters?

Any problems with doing it this way? I know things can go wrong, but I assume that if I properly support all the pipes I can use a no hub fitting to connect pvc to my cast iron.

Or do I need to consider getting a cast iron wye fitting, pounding in oakum and then sealing over it with liquid lead?

thanks for the advice.

[Cass]

Use banded couplings.

[Lakee911]

Or do I need to consider getting a cast iron wye fitting, pounding in oakum and then sealing over it with liquid lead?

If I had nothing better to do, I might try this...just to see what it is like. Completely unecssary though.

If noise is an issue, I would do hubless CI or PVC if it is not.

Jason

[coach606]

Noise isn't an issue so I guess I'll just go with the pvc and banded couplers.

Can anyone explain the hubless cast iron? I'm not sure I understand how it works, unless it just sits on the hub of two banded couplings.

[Mikey]

Or do I need to consider getting a cast iron wye fitting, pounding in oakum and then sealing over it with liquid lead?

A fun job, especially making the molten lead run uphill to seal the lower bell on the wye fitting.

[Lakee911]

Noise isn't an issue so I guess I'll just go with the pvc and banded couplers.

Can anyone explain the hubless cast iron? I'm not sure I understand how it works, unless it just sits on the hub of two banded couplings.

The stainless steel banded rubber/neoprene/whatever couplers are the essentially a two-ended hub. You insert both pieces of pipe into the connector/coupler. (They are just butted up together--one pipe does not enter into the other). After you crank down on the bands, it pulls it alltogether inline and forms a leakproof rigid connection.

Jason

[Lakee911]

A fun job, especially making the molten lead run uphill to seal the lower bell on the wye fitting.

How do you do that?

[Mikey]

How do you do that?

Ask an old plumber, I guess. I remember watching my father when we built our house back in ought-50, but I don't remember the details. As I recall, there was a rope-like thing wrapped around the lower pipe that allowed you to pour a ring of lead in the general area, then it was tamped upward with a kind of offset chisel-thingy called a caulking iron or packing iron. All the lead does is hold the oakum in place, so it doesn't have to be pretty -- just tight.

[Bud1300]

Ask an old plumber, I guess. I remember watching my father when we built our house back in ought-50, but I don't remember the details. As I recall, there was a rope-like thing wrapped around the lower pipe that allowed you to pour a ring of lead in the general area, then it was tamped upward with a kind of offset chisel-thingy called a caulking iron or packing iron. All the lead does is hold the oakum in place, so it doesn't have to be pretty -- just tight.

You install 1 inch of okum and pack it with a packing iron then you install a joint runner and pour your lead then you us a inside caulking iron then a outside caulking iron to complete the job.

[Lakee911]

Ahh I see. Ok. Thanks.