Cast iron flange or flange extension (?) below tile floor

Users who are viewing this thread

gardengirl

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
The flange (?) underneath the toilet I removed (photo attached) doesn't look anything like anything I could find in current or archived posts. I'm not even sure it's a proper flange or flange extension -- there are no slots for bolts and the existing bolts fit into small notches in the outer edge and are locked in place by cement that underlies the tile flooring. The tile was cut out around the flange -- the surface of the tile is 1/2 inch above the flange. The previous toilet was held down by a super-thick wax ring and lots of very good caulk. I'm hesitant to install my new Toto Drake the same way, but I don't know if I can even find a proper extension or whatever it is that I need to do the job correctly. Should I abandon my ambition of doing this job myself and call a plumber to modify or replace the flange and install my toilet? (Everything had been going so well...!)
Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

Attachments

  • flange.jpg
    flange.jpg
    38.4 KB · Views: 2,266

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
The notches work well for holding the closet bolts if the flange is tight and secure to the floor.
Since the flange is lower, you will need at least two wax rings.
Caulking is done from bolt to bolt along the front.

Instructions

drake_angle2.jpg
 
Last edited:
D

dc_homeplumber

Guest
Some Lowe's stores carry products from a company called Plastic Oddities and they have a number of products (waxless seals, flange extenders, etc.) that I have used with great success. If your local Lowe's doesn't carry them, check them out at http://www.plasticoddities.com/WEBPO5/PO Catalog2004.pdf and you'll find what you need and save the money by doing it yourself.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
It looks to me that that is a cast iron drain, with the toilet flange attached by a lead, oakem (?) joint. Very solid, but very labor intensive to install and replace. As long as it is solid, leave it alone! You can either use flange extenders or a couple of wax rings. Just make sure the rings are together well before you set things in place cause you don't want them shifting while tightening. Ideally, the bottom of the flange would sit on top of your finished floor. You can get by with it as it is, but it is not ideal (few things in life are!).
 

gardengirl

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks for the guidance-- and the reassurance that the easier way is sometimes OK. (My house has so many previous-homeowner "innovations" that it's sometimes hard for me to tell which are OK and which are not!) The nearest Lowes is 100 miles away, so I'm going with the additional wax rings. Just curious, Terry, why do you only caulk around the front of the toilet? Thanks again--
Amy
 

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,459
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
Where to caulk a toilet bowl.

Plumbing code here says caulk the front of the bowl, but not to caulk the back.

If the seal leaks, you will want to see it right away.
The caulking in front is for boys with poor aim.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks