rough in dilemma

Hi all, I have a bit of a situation here. I am in the middle of a bathroom remodel. Never really figured that the toilet rough in would cause me problems. One would think that it would be standard or at least easily remedied. I was on my way to Lowes to pick up a new toilet--I know it was not going to be a Toto, but in 39 years I haven't had the pleasure of using one and got by just fine... It was to be the Kohler Cimarron--which seems to get pretty good reviews except on this forum for some reason. I think I am slowly getting brainwashed like all of you because I started looking into getting a Toto this morning. I found a shop that sells them only a few minutes from my house-it must be an omen. I shall be looking at them in a bit here. Here is my dilemma. My rough in is at 13.5". Not quite the 14" and way larger than the 12" standard. So it looks like I am either going to be too far from the wall or jammed right aganst it. I can't, or won't, tear up the slab--I just finished re-tiling it. Also, my water shutoff is at 6" from center of flange, and 6.5" off of floor. So I am sure that will probably be a problem if I can manage to get the 14" rough in adapter to work. Is there a reason why there isn't an easy solution for this? I am no mechanical engineer, but it sure seems like it wouldn't be too difficult making a toilet that can be adaptable within a couple inches with out putiing some huge skirt around the bottom. Toto realizes that 5.5" offset for shutoff is standard, yet they design the toilet too large to accomodate this? What is up with that? Any way, I am just a frustrated homeowner needing to vent. What is the cheapest, gmax flush(or better), elongated bowl, ada compliant, with CEFIONTECT finish that Toto makes that also will work with the 14" rough in adapter if I need it? Thanks

Most 12" toilets would have 2.25" between the wall and tank with your 13.5" rough.

They do make 14" tanks for other brands that fill that space some, with out moving the bowl back.

Toto at least allows the bowl to move back 2".

Getting something in ADA in CEFIONTECT is hard, the Toto Soriee comes that way with the skirted base, which as you note would mean moving the supply if you move the bowl back with the 14" Unifit.



The Soriee has the 16.125" high bowl, elongated, CEFIONTECT, Cyclone flush, and a bigger cost added to it.
I'm waiting to install one in my home to try it out.

You can go without the CEFIONTECT, even the standard glaze is pretty good.

just returned from the store...

Just had my first on-hands experience with Toto toilets. Unfortunately, I am still in decision mode-hard for me to commit to anything...

yeah, I found out it is hard to find a Toto with elongated bowxl, ADA height, with the CEFIONTECT finish. I probably would have picked up the Drake right there if it had these options.

They did mention a new model--the Guinevere. It has the new flushing system(double cyclone or something) with ADA height and CEFIONTECT finish. Didn't have a model in store yet though. Also, it was listed at $890 I think--A little too high for my budget--or for a toilet in any case...The pictures on Toto's site show a big skirted look, so the water supply valve might be in the way with that one any way.

I think I am just going to have to live with the extra 2" gap behind the tank. The showroom I went to had their toilets off of the wall probably about that far, and it didn't seem too bad. Thanks for all the info here--Never dreamed I would be reading up on toilets for 2 days...

It looks like I will be spending about $150 more if I choose the ADA Drake over the Kohler Cimarron, and I think I will still need the seat with the Drake--even more if I went with the Ultramax. I am going to have to decide soon if it is really worth almost double the price--I thought I read on here that they were comparitively priced?

Thanks again...

I fail to see the problem with having a small gap between the toilet tank and the wall...its not like a sink backsplash.

That sounds like the kind of rambling "nonsense" that Rocky Balboa would spout after going 12 rounds with Mr. T. The counter is going to be "straight" and the sink should also be "straight". If the sink is crooked, then it will be very apparent when it does not line up with the front of the countertop, or the backsplash.

Here is my what my hubby that you maybe interested in....

http://justkitchenbacksplash.com/kit...ash-ideas.html

check it out