Shallow well pump need help ????

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djarp

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I just installed a 1/2hp flowtec jet pump, but when I use more than one faucet the flow goes down the hot water heater is tankless and the unit shuts down when the water flow changes. :confused: The tank is 82gal and is set to 38lbs the pressure switch is set to 40/60 the well is 30ft deep and 10 ft from the house. the gauge reads 38 when switch is on and 60 when off. Is the pump too small to handle the volume of water use in the home.
 
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Lakee911

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djarp said:
I just installed a 1/2hp flowtec jet pump, but when I use more than one faucet the flow goes down the hot water heater is tankless and the unit shuts down when the water flow changes. :confused: The tank is 82gal and is set to 38lbs the pressure switch is set to 40/60 the well is 30ft deep and 10 ft from the house. the gauge reads 38 when switch is on and 60 when off. Is the pump too small to handle the volume of water use in the home.

You have two seperate issues here. The low flow is causing the tankless unit to go off. They typically have a minimum flow rate to operate. If you turn on one faucet at a trickle, it shouldn't come on either.

Low flow to both faucets could just be the fact that you're now drawing twice as much water so you get half as much at each location. What size is the plumbing to each of those fixtures from your bladder tank?

Problem could be your bladder tank too....perhaps its waterlogged? Someone else will chime in w/ info to help in the tank dept :)

Jason
 

Speedbump

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I would be a little suspicious of that 1/2hp Flotec. That is not what you would call a big producer. It could also be that the well is not providing enough water.

What does the pressure do when you have the two faucets open? If it stays at 38 or above it's probably the plumbing like Jason suggested.

If you have problems with the tank, the pump will cycle rapidly.

bob...
 

djarp

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The pie is 1/2 to the faucets and the presurized tank is 82gal, the flow gets pretty low when two faucets are turned on at the same time. I just exchanged the pump to a 1hp and it seems to keep up the water demand at the shower but the tankless heater seems to cycle on & off to cold ,I have to turn the shower on & off to keep water hot.
 

djarp

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cycle Stop or pressure regulator?????

:eek: what is the difference between cycle stop valve and a pressure regultor valve
 

Speedbump

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A Cycle Stop Valve keeps constant pressure in your system no matter how much water you are using. It works with the pressure switch and tank that you have now in most cases. Of coarse the pump has to have the capacity to keep up with demand or nothing will improve the situation.

bob...
 
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djarp

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cycle valve installed ??????

:confused: I installed the cycle valve csv1 50 psi , but i cant seem to controll cycle on pump . when shower is on I get great pressure an the hot water problem with the tankless system was corrected ,even on outside lines checked at 50psi , " but pump cycles on and off". The bladder is at 38psi switch is a 40/60 flotech 1 hp jet pump. But I know this pump has a built in check valve and there is one also at the well line 5ft from the pump head no foot valve. The well is 40 ft and pleanty of water Im in miami florida. How do I correct the problem with the constant cycle??????? :confused:
 

Bob NH

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Did you remove the pressure switch from the pump and install it at the tank after the Cycle Stop Valve? That is how it must be to work.

There must be a small bypass with the CSV. I don't know if they are adjustable or not.

You need two 0-100 psi pressure gauges to diagnose this problem; one on the tank near the pressure switch and one on the inlet side of the CSV. If you already have 0-160 that's ok, but replace with 0-100 when they fail.

How deep is it to water in the well? How deep is the pipe set in the well?

The check valve at the top, with no foot valve, creates a problem if there is any air leak in the suction pipe.

Is there any chance that there is a check valve between the pressure switch and the tank? That would cause rapid cycling.

If the pump is marginal, the Cycle Stop Valve will make it worse because there is pressure drop across the CSV.
 
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vaplumber

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My belief is that this pump is not capable of keeping up with the demand. If you replaced a Goulds, Myers, or other quality brand with the Flotec, you should have uprated the flotec, because most of the mid to top end pumps are rated conservatively, while the lower quality pumps are rated at what they can legally get by with. Bare in mind that many of the cheaper pumps may be manufactured by a well know company with a highly respected reputation (there are very few pump manufacturers out there who build many brands), but also keep in mind, like automobiles, maybe I bought a Geo, and my brother bought a Cadillac. Both are marketed by GM, but I bought a disposable car, while my brother drove his Caddy over 300,000 miles. I am all for the csv valve, but you must have a pump that has the right capacity. The 1/2hp flotec is not it.
 
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Valveman

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I agree with BobNH, the Cycle Stop Valve must be between the pump and the pressure tank / pressure switch. If you put the CSV after the pressure switch, it will still try to hold 50 PSI on the house (which will help the water heater) but the pump will still cycle between 40 and 60. Put the CSV before the pressure switch and it will hold 50 PSI without the pump cycling. The CSV1 is perfect for a marginal size pump as it only has 2 PSI friction loss at 20 GPM. Like BobNH says, if your pump has the pressure switch stuck to the side of the pump, you need to move the pressure line for the pressure switch to the other side of the CSV.
 

djarp

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Thanks for the help , the pump seems to be keeping up with demand after I changed the location of the cycle rate valve. I have removed the plastic regulators in the shower heads as per the advice of the tankless water heater company it seems to have helped with that issue, Im only wating for a pressure regulator to control constant pressure to the tankless water heater. I had to order it on line because the plumbing suppliers in the Miami Fla area don't carry them. The new problem i have encountered is that the 20amp breaker to the pump has tripped twice. I have relaced the pressure switch just in case it is getting stuck. I have replaced the breaker . I am hoping that this was the problem. hpefully I don't have to replace the pump. After demand for water is met the pump cycles for about 4 mins and shuts of at 60lbs. :rolleyes:
 

Speedbump

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Why would you need a regulator for the hot water. You already have the CSV in line and in the right place now. What is this other regulator going to do?

bob...
 

djarp

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from what i have been told the cv valve kepps the pump from cycle so often , the problem with the tankless water heater is that it senses the change in the presuure from 40 to 60 psi and it shuts the burners off. the presuure must be constant. This is what I was told by the mfg (Bosch). They suggested the pressure reducing valve :eek:
 
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djarp

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its the initial change when the pump drops it keeps it constanat so it does not drop below 50psi but when the pump does the first cycle it drops below 40 draw down then the csv takes over but he presure goes up to 60.
 

djarp

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Yes its between the house and the tank, its working correctly I watch the presure remain at 50 when the cycle valve kicks in it keeps pressure from droping below 50lbs as the pump runs. until water demand is met. Maybe its because the presure switch is set at at around 42cut on its under the operating cycle of the valve. Its a 50 psi valve. :confused:
 
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djarp

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ok , but when the presure goes down to 40psi the pump comes on ,this change in pressure is what the what the heater senses and shuts down the burner it runs ok once the cycle valve kicks in at 50psi and the constant presure is there.
 
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