Just replace it and you will have your water back.
We had the well pump replaced in 98, and has worked flawlessly since then. THe control box says:
Just the other day the circuit breaker tripped on the well pump. In turning it back on, it trips again after about 15 seconds or so. When I take the cover off the control box, the breaker does not trip (open circuit).
I am wanting to know if there is a process to troubleshoot which component is at fault, or should I just replace the pump?
Last edited by SteveFromMass; 06-04-2006 at 03:58 PM.
Just replace it and you will have your water back.
Does the pump make flow and pressure before it trips?
If the pipe comes off in the well, it is possible to overload the motor on some pumps, but 15 seconds seems pretty quick for that.
If something is causing the pump to drag and not come up to speed, that will cause an overload and trip the breaker.
Is the trip in the control box overload protector, or the circuit breaker in your main panel?
If you can get or borrow a clamp-on ammeter you should be able to measure the current in the wires to the pump and compare with the full load amp rating of the motor. The pump should be operating at normal amps within about 3 seconds. The motor data from the Goulds manual is probably applicable to your Frankllin 3/4 HP motor. Check Page 12 for Amps and Ohms.
If you have a control box, then you have a 3-wire pump which has a relay to unload the starting winding. If the relay fails to operate you could be overloading the circuit breaker or thermal overload protector in the pump control box. You could also have a capacitor failure.
Cass & Bob,
Thanks for your input. I've determined to just replace the well pump.
I am an engineer with strong mechanical knowledge, and being one to do all the remodeling myself, I’d like to give this a try.
I have the cap off and am looking for the best way to lift/slide the pitless adaptor off. It looks to be a Simmons unit with a dovetail fitting that just lifts off, but it is currently 6' down from the well cap.
From what I can tell I should be able to thread a 1" pipe into the top of the adaptor and lift it out.
PS: Anyone around north central Massachustts wanting to helpout ?$?
Last edited by SteveFromMass; 06-05-2006 at 05:29 AM.
Make a T set up with 1" pipe and get a helper to work with you. Do you know the depth of the well? I grew up in Littleton, where are you located.
The well is 300'.Originally Posted by Cass
I'm in Westminster, just on the other side of Fitchburg/Leominster.
I got a nice Goulds 3/4 pump, control box, and 10' 1" black pipe with a tee on it.
I'm trying to wiggle the pitless adaptor up without too much force. How much is needed?
Thanks again for all the help, I am sure I will have some ? today during the installation.
Last edited by SteveFromMass; 06-05-2006 at 08:06 AM.
If your an engineer, I have to assume your educated. Why would you pull a pump that you may very easily end up deep sixing into your well with one little slip. As opposed to checking the electrical components in that control box???
I mean, wouldn't it be easier to replace a start capacitor/relay and a possibly waterlogged bladder tank than pulling a 30 pound pump hanging on either galvanized, poly or PVC pipe filled with water to a depth of maybe 280 feet?
Let's see, how much does 1-1/4" galvanized pipe full of water weigh?
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
1 1/4 plastic pipe and water is 1.1 pounds per foot. 280' = 308 pounds.
1 1/4 galv pipe and water is 2.93 pounds per foot. 280' = 820 pounds.
Pump weighs 35 pounds, wire another 100 pounds.
Plastic pipe total weight 443 pounds.
Steel pipe total weight 955 pounds.
Pitless adapter is probably stuck a little may require an extra 50# of pull.
Gonna be heavy to pull by hand. I agree with Speedbump, always try a new control box first. Capacitor and relay in box is usual problem. These problems are usually caused by cycling on and off too many times. So my standard answer to keep these problems from happening in the first place, don't let the pump cycle. Use a Cycle Stop Valve. Pump might still be OK. I would try a new control box first. I wouldn't buy a new car if all it needs is a new battery.
I replaced the control box and it is still tripping.Originally Posted by speedbump
With the help of 3 other guys, I was able to pull the pump out. Everything looks as good as the day it went in.
I'm just going to swap the pump out.
I'll look into the cycle stop value.
Last edited by SteveFromMass; 06-05-2006 at 10:11 AM.
Installed the new control box and pump.
Placed the pump it in a tub of water before installing in the well. It started to pump, but after 5 seconds the motor shut off.
Turned out to me a two red wire shorts....
Last edited by SteveFromMass; 06-05-2006 at 02:47 PM.
Put an amp meter on the wire and see what the pump is pulling.
Measured an open on the red wire. Chased the lines and foud two rub spots. One had a brake.Originally Posted by Cass
Life is restored to normal. Thanks for the help guys.
Last edited by SteveFromMass; 06-05-2006 at 03:24 PM.
Check the wiring and drop cable, as you stated above. The fact that it ran fine with the control box cover removed says electrical leak. You interupted part of the grounding. One other caution...never ever ever run a pump in a tub of water!!! Read your owners manual! Takes less than three seconds to damage a pump of upthrust failure! This is where the motor shaft rises, and forces the pump stack up, damaging the thrust bearings and some impeller stages. Not enough head pressure to load the stack and hold it down. You wont notice this failure right away, but consider your pump life as cut in half, or less! Consider a constant pressure valve to properly load the pump and increase life.Originally Posted by SteveFromMass