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Thread: Driven well point check

  1. #1

    Default Driven well point check

    Whats the best way to check that my well point is in good condition and not clogged. I suspect it might be restricted. I do not know how old it is but the camp is 50+ years old.

    The well head is 4' above lake level.
    the well is 10 feet from the lake edge.
    water level is 4' down.
    the well is 12' deep ( point is 12' down )

    45' to the pump elevated maybe 8' from well head


    Pump is a Goulds deep well with shallow well injector kit 1/3 hp set 30/50lbs

    1" ID continuous line from well head with check valve all joints checked for leaks with soap and water.

    seems like the pump is struggling to fill the new flowtec 80 gallon bladder tank we just got and really struggles when the pressure gets to 50lbs right before it kicks off. My thought is that it is having trouble sucking thru a clogged straw....
    any thoughts?

  2. #2
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
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    The best way to check for suction conditions is with a vacuum gauge on the suction side of the pump. You want to install it where it won't be destroyed by overpressure when the pump goes off. The gauge either has to have a maximum pressure capability consistent with the pump shutoff or it has to be installed on the well side of the check valve.

    Your shallow well pump is rated for a certain "lift". If it is more than 20 ft, the pump will have significantly reduced flow and pressure capacity, and 25 ft is the maximum rating for most pumps.

    You can get a vacuum-pressure gauge that has a range from vacuum to 30 psi from Grainger, Stock No. 2C515.

  3. #3
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    An easy way is listen to the pump. If it sounds like it is full of marbles, it is cavitating and this could mean a plugged screen. If this screen has not been changed in those 40 years, I don't think you need to do many tests.

    bob...

  4. #4

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    My neighbor said I can pull it out with a jack and replace the point then stick it back in the same hole with some coaxing....does that sound good to you guys?

    I dont know if it is 40 years old but its more than 10 I do know that.

  5. #5
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    Turn it clockwise first several revs. This will break it loose some. I used to use a railroad spike puller, a chain and pipe wrench to pull them. But I'll leave the pulling to you. You will need a hammer of some kind to put it back in. Be sure all the joints are butted and very tight. If you can knock it another 5 foot and still be in water it will last much longer. Otherwise you are putting it right back in the same block of buildup that you pulled it from.

    bob...

  6. #6

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    Bob thanks for the input. I will do a final check this weekend and see if its working and if not I will turn pull and give it 5 more feet in the same hole.

    Dave

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedbump
    An easy way is listen to the pump. If it sounds like it is full of marbles, it is cavitating and this could mean a plugged screen. If this screen has not been changed in those 40 years, I don't think you need to do many tests.

    bob...

    Speedbump - Does cavitation introduce air into the system that causes the faucet to spit and splash? My system is still producing air, I have checked everything from the top of the well point to the faucet. IT'S ALL NEW. I have done the shaving cream test on all the fittings. It hold pressure like a champ. it might lose 2psi from sunday to friday night while we are gone. ( i shut the pump off for the week to check that)

    You stated above that a pump that sounds like marbles means its having suction issues. My pump does not run smooth - the needle bounces up and down by 4-6psi like a pencil tapping while it fills and the whole system shutters every few seconds while its pumping (its a ow thunk thunk sound and you can feel it while it does it. Im ready to throw the whole thing out the window. Think its time for a pump rebuild? Its a Goulds 1/3 HP J series converted deep well - or is it time for a new well point?

  8. #8
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    Cavitation can help the suction line to leak air since there is a great vacuum on it. The reason would be a low water level or a plugged screen or low producing well.Cavitation by itself cannot produce air however.

    Air leaks may very well not leak water even under pressure.

    bob ...

  9. #9

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    Any thoughts on the chugging and the bouncing needle on the pressure gauge? is it pretty safe to say my point is in need of replacing?

  10. #10
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    Cavitation causes the jumping of the needle. Cavitation is little voids that actually implode and cause damage to your impeller, seal casting and pretty much all inside the pump.

    bob...

  11. #11

    Default Driven well point replacement.

    When I replace my 12' deep driven well point should i use new pipe or reuse the existing. If I use new is black iron pipe or galvanized the best choice?

  12. #12
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    Galvanized will last longer and the old pipe could be used unless it is pitted.

    bob...

  13. #13

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    Well Its finally done. I replaced our well point with a new one but have a few things to share with those who have not done this. When you hit the well point with a hammer you have to stop every few hits to tighten the pipe and the cap as both the cap and couplings become loose as you hit it. Next dig a big starter hole becaus once you get down fush with the ground its hart to get in there and remove the drive cap and install the elbow. When you beat it have someone roate it clock wise while you hit it, it goes in quicker. One more thing, I almost couldnt get the drive cap off the pipe from beating it so much so I recomend a little selant lubricant to aid in removal.

    Thanks to all who helped me with this you guys are invaluable.

  14. #14
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    Good advice Dave.

    You should always butt the pipe together in the couplings before hitting them. They will still need to be turned while hitting them.

    bob...

  15. #15

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    bob couldn't have doen it without you thanks!!!!

    Dave

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